01-14-2018, 06:54 PM | #1 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Milford CT
Posts: 32
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Carb question
Good day everyone, I purchased a 2000 EZGO TXT (295cc). It has almost no power. I am just starting to work on and have put all new filters, new spark plugs, new Carb and I did adjust the Valves to .004 ( I now know I need to move this to .006 for longer runs as I am going to use this in a campground.) It did have a full tank of gas when I got it and I have no idea how old it is. I have not drained yet it so I am wondering old gas can cause this as well? I'll do this before anything else.
The cart will start with full choke, only need the choke for about 5-10 seconds. In neutral the engine appears to rev up pretty good but in gear I can barely get it to go up hill and on level ground top speed is slower than walking. The one thing I noted last night was that with the pedal all the way to the floor, if I reach in to the carb and push the throttle it will move almost twice as far. My question is how far should the throttle lever move on the carb? I am assuming it should move stop to stop, and in that case I have about 1/4-1/3 of the throttle open with the accelerator pedal all the way to the floor. Also even with the new carb I am getting a small discharge out of the carb, kind of like a back fire. Was almost every 10 seconds with the old carb now almost gone but does happen once in a while. I know I need to check the compression and I will as soon as I get my gauge back, but wanted to pick the mind of the cart guru's for the throttle movement. Thank you guys and sorry if I left out anything needed. |
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01-14-2018, 10:24 PM | #2 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Woodstock,GA
Posts: 1,088
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Re: Carb question
This could all be for not if compression is low!
The movement in the linkage is most likely you pulling back on where the governor has it set. The gov. is a fly weight system in the rear end and operates off RPM of engine thru the driven clutch (rear clutch) If you run with out the belt on you will by-pass the gov. no power on hill could also be clutch not down shifting properly! For these carbs to work right they need restriction. air box tight and sealed! I would 1 take carb apart completely and soak overnight with carb cleaner. blow out with compressed air. 2 run with belt off. rev up and down. watch clutch action to see if its working. without the belt it will rev much higher since the gov will be bypassed. don't blow it up! 3 with the belt on! rev it up and watch how the gov pulls back on the throttle as rpm come up. this can be adjusted. |
01-16-2018, 07:48 AM | #3 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Milford CT
Posts: 32
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Re: Carb question
Thank you for the suggestions
1 take carb apart completely and soak overnight with carb cleaner. blow out with compressed air. - This is a brand new Carb with the factory adjustments. 2 run with belt off. rev up and down. watch clutch action to see if its working. without the belt it will rev much higher since the gov will be bypassed. don't blow it up! 3 with the belt on! rev it up and watch how the gov pulls back on the throttle as rpm come up. this can be adjusted. This appears to work but it never really revs high, I need to borrow a tach and look at it but IMO it appears to be running a lower RPM Also the clutches appear to work but on"RE" acceleration I hear something that sounds like a bearing in a can for a little while then it goes away. I was wondering if this may be the driven clutch? Ill keep digging, thank you for the suggestions. |
01-16-2018, 02:44 PM | #4 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Woodstock,GA
Posts: 1,088
|
Re: Carb question
[QUOTE=stevedjarrell;1467971]Thank you for the suggestions
1 take carb apart completely and soak overnight with carb cleaner. blow out with compressed air. - This is a brand new Carb with the factory adjustments. 2 run with belt off. rev up and down. watch clutch action to see if its working. without the belt it will rev much higher since the gov will be bypassed. don't blow it up! 3 with the belt on! rev it up and watch how the gov pulls back on the throttle as rpm come up. this can be adjusted. This appears to work but it never really revs high, I need to borrow a tach and look at it but IMO it appears to be running a lower RPM Also the clutches appear to work but on"RE" acceleration I hear something that sounds like a bearing in a can for a little while then it goes away. I was wondering if this may be the driven clutch? I bought a new carb last summer off e-bay! It had junk in the very small passages from the manufacturing process. once I cleaned it out it worked fine. If you think the noise is in the driven clutch, run without belt, should not have noise then. With the belt off does it rev much higher! it should! |
01-16-2018, 02:45 PM | #5 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Blackshear, GA
Posts: 226
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Re: Carb question
Hey Steve,
I can only speak about the carb cleaning...even brand new out of the box carbs sometimes have millings left inside and will nee to be cleaned. I cleaned by 2 carbs 3 times each before I finally got it right. |
01-17-2018, 10:09 PM | #6 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Milford CT
Posts: 32
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Re: Carb question
Thanks Guys, I never thought that the new carb may be faulty. I have the old one soaking in parts cleaner. I'll let it set a few more days and reassemble and install it. I have found that in neutral it will rev higher then slow down a little, it peaks then backs off a little. As soon as it warms up a little I'll remove belt as suggested and try running it. It is running much better it will go up my drive way, slight hill but it does slow down to a point but then keeps pace until climbed. I still think I do not have full throttle but I will try this weekend with the original carb re-installed. I do appreciate the comments, I just have little time to test between snow storms and work.
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01-21-2018, 12:16 PM | #7 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Milford CT
Posts: 32
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Re: Carb question
OK, I now know what is causing my power loss.... I finally did the Compression test. Cylinder closest to the tank (Right side) has 162lbs of compression. The left side Cylinder has 0 or at least does not even register. Also when I added about a tablespoon of oil to it it did not change at all. I then check the other cylinder again and still showed 162lbs compression
Also the sound of a bearing bouncing around that I have heard is probable part of a ring dropped down near the crank? I noticed I only hear this after I have had the Valve cover off, then it goes away in a few minutes. Think this could be due to introducing Air in to the lubrication system? So my assumption at this point is that I need to rebuild it? So gentlemen I have to ask how easy is it to rebuild one of these engines? I have never done it before or any engine for that fact and am leaning toward the Ct Rebuilds to get a re manufactured pre-m 295cc. Thoughts? Any suggestions? Thank you all in advanced. Also I did finally run it with the belt off and it does rpm up a lot fast, and the all clutches appear to work as expected. Thanks for listening and commenting -Steve |
01-21-2018, 04:11 PM | #8 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: NY
Posts: 72
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Re: Carb question
Hi Steve. 0 PSI means that you are definitely in the market for a rebuild or replacement.
Cant tell you how easy it is, I guess that depends on your comfort with checking out what you have, and what sorts of tools you already own. Might be a good project for you if you have time and wanted another hobby, but thats more something for you to decide... There is an engine service manual here on the forum that will walk you through the measurements you would need to take to see whats still in spec and what isnt. Let us know what you decide! |
01-22-2018, 02:23 AM | #9 |
British born Nincompoop
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 2,456
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Re: Carb question
Find the manual in the tech section and read up on removing the cylinder head. My guess is you have a broken inlet valve. When you set the valve lash, how much more thread was showing above the locknut on the inner two valves compared to the outer two? iff inlet valves are good, the your suspicion of rings is probably correct. If however it is just the inlet valves, then it can be repaired easily without removing the engine. just check if any damage to the piston is apparent. I dont usually see ring damage on these engines hence i suspect the valves.
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01-22-2018, 07:32 AM | #10 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Milford CT
Posts: 32
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Re: Carb question
Thank you for that, I will definitely have a crack at that. Although I have not rebuilt an engine before I am pretty mechanically inclined so I would much rather check that before doing anything more expensive. thank you sir,
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