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Gas Yamaha Gas Yamaha Golf Cars; G1 through "The Drive" and U-Max Utility Vehicles |
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05-25-2016, 08:42 AM | #21 |
Sometime's............
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Tacoma Washington
Posts: 11,875
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Re: G16A Rear Diff CRACKED
Sorry to say those gears are bad. Also, the "idler" gear on the outer case will need replacing.
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05-25-2016, 06:02 PM | #22 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 30
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Re: G16A Rear Diff CRACKED
Thanks for the replies, the guy might be welding up the case tomorrow, I will show pics of that after its finished. As for the gears, I am on the look out for some gears.. I am going to look in to saving whatever I can save. I all ready have too much money into this, so I either am at the point where I throw the bank at it.. or try to pinch and save on the rest and hope that the old parts I cheaped out on don't destroy my new parts I spent top dollar on. I know a guy that works magic with metal... I will see what he can do... will post pics of whatever course of action I decide..
As for the idler gear, that was the one I didn't show pics of.... it's probably my best one... the pinion gear is another story,,, |
07-04-2016, 06:36 AM | #23 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 30
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Re: G16A Rear Diff CRACKED
Hello everyone, it's been a while. Back with an update.....
Got the transasxle welded up. So for the gears, I did not replace them. I filed them down. Any spot that was mushroomed in a little bit I hit it with a file and a grinding stone. When I put everything back in the axle everything seemed to line up just fine. Assembly was pretty straight forward. I found some pictures that someone took of their input shaft install, that helped out alot. Also I used the parts manual so I remembered where the washers or any other part went. I messed up and did not take a whole lot of pictures. I wish I did... so I got everything together 3 days ago and yesterday I took it around 15 miles or so, and no issues. Well my drive clutch plate was coming loose but I didn't even mess with that during all of that... So the axle has 80-90w in it now and it holds it!!!.. NO MORE GREASE and no more HOLE.... WOOOHOOOO. I was very surprised that the gears were not noisy at all. everything sounded the way it should. I don't see why those gears won't last for years to come. Just change my oil every year and should be good to go. |
07-04-2016, 06:58 AM | #24 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 30
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Re: G16A Rear Diff CRACKED
Also I did the Bluing thing that Robert was talking about. That helped alot. I used bluing to help me when I was filing as well. I did not file any of the top part or face of the spline, just the mushroomed out parts. And I filed everything until the gears that needed to mesh together lined up perfectly.. then I installed. The re-assembly took me only a few hours... The filing of the gears with a stone took me 4 days, a few hours a day. It was very time consuming. However, I ended up doing alot of the filing while i was watching tv or just relaxing.
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07-04-2016, 08:49 AM | #25 |
Sometime's............
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Tacoma Washington
Posts: 11,875
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Re: G16A Rear Diff CRACKED
Good for you I would suggest getting rid of that dreaded "White" spring.
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07-04-2016, 08:28 PM | #26 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Mass.
Posts: 417
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Re: G16A Rear Diff CRACKED
I'm glad it worked for you.
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07-04-2016, 09:51 PM | #27 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 30
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Re: G16A Rear Diff CRACKED
the white spring came with the plowman cart torque kit... is that the bad spring to have? It was alot thicker and heavy than the black one that came out....
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07-05-2016, 12:19 PM | #28 |
Crazy Ole Man
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Owego NY
Posts: 2,758
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Re: G16A Rear Diff CRACKED
Excellent save and a great weld job. What type of drain plug does it have? If it's magnetic all well and good ------ if not You might consider putting a big flat magnet on the tin cover to filter out any metal flake in the oil as the parts wear in.
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07-07-2016, 11:00 AM | #29 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 30
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Re: G16A Rear Diff CRACKED
Had some setbacks so never put a plug in it. I gave him the case without the main drive gear, so when he welded it back together the gear did not fit back in it, not a big deal it just took longer than expected.
I plan on driving it around pretty good the next few days then draining and refilling soon. I am surprised that it isn't leaking, I bet it will leak eventually but so far so good. I was going to replace the axle seals, the cart place sent me the wrong ones so I used the old ones that were leaking previously, so far they are not leaking but eventually I am sure they will. The magnet would be a good idea. I am sure there is going to be some metal crap in there. I am hoping this is a permanent fix and not just a band aid. Only time will tell.... Even though I went cheap, it still wasn't a cheap fix... due to the fact the input shaft was 300 bucks. A used rear end was 600-700 maybe I should have went that route, but I would not have learned all this stuff about the rear end, and swapping rear ends is just plain.... BORING... plus I only paid 600 for the cart so paying 600 for a rear end seemed ridiculous... I really think i could have gotten rid of the the governor stuff on the input shaft and cleaned up input shaft and that may have worked. But being how important the shaft is.. i decided to go new. |
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