G2 input shaft gear removal

[Yamahopper]

Yep. Did it with a hydraulic press. Like sho305 said, it takes beans.

Now, where do these extra shims go? I'll find out soon enough. Thanks

[Dave in VA]

The extra shims would go onto the far end of the shaft. They're there to take out the endplay in the shaft. You'll have to experiment to see how many you'll need--there shouldn't be hardly any in and out movement.

[Yamahopper]

Got it all back together with the spacers on the end of shaft. Everything works great with the new shaft.
Only thing that's different is the secondary clutch spring adjustment. I put it in "B-3". It used to idle when started without taking off. Now it wants to go as soon as it's started, even with a light foot on the gas pedal. Should it be in another setting?

[cgtech]

B3 is correct for G2 if I recall. A g2 that idles is incorrect.

[Yamahopper]

Sorry, I said that wrong. I don't mean it would idle by itself. Only if I kept a little pressure on the gas pedal. It still shuts off when I take my foot off the gas, which is how it should be. It's just that the gas is very "touchy". It wants to take off with very little control for a slow forward speed. I think the spring might have been in another setting before I took it apart. I'll try a different setting tomorrow and see if that changes anything.
Thanks

[sho305]

That is usually your throttle cable, it has to be loose enough to not move the carb until after it is running by the pedal. Then you can set the idle speed to what you want (very slow). If the cable pulls on it or the idle is set high the cart wants to take off. The top of my pedal moves about 1" after it starts until it moves the carb open at all. You do have to check it moves all the way to WOT, or modify things, or like I did move the pedal up a spline for more travel. Anyway I can rest my foot on the pedal and it idles fine.

The spring should make no difference, but a new sheave can, a new belt can. They should wear in after a while.

[Yamahopper]

Thanks for the help. That makes my job that much easier now.

[sho305]

I set the idle on the carb really slow but faster than the starter runs, it may be hard to get slow if your carb is newer and has no idle mix screw on the side. The mix needs to be just right to get a good slow idle. It seems to help it start faster that way with a proper idle set, and usually when I'm done I turn the mix out a little more long as it still idles good. That helps it start all summer with no choke.

[cgtech]

Hmm, carbs that don't idle would use something like a low speed/transition circuit? I always feel OCD about that "idle" thing on engines that don't need to maintain a mixture to allow an engine proper "idle". A OEM g2 carb has a screw to set the throttle blade, and a pilot screw, no other "screw" adjustments. I have never seen any Yamaha carbs with more, or less than those two. Lol, maybe it's just OCD....

[sho305]

My G9 has idle speed and idle mix, original carb. Clone has same thing though the idle mix was capped I had to drill it out. You can not usually get a slow idle without adjusting the idle mix, true on clones also. Clone does have a idle jet under the speed screw that may have to be opened a little or it limits the mix screw too much. What I find is proper idle mix and low speed allows you to shift gears at idle as well as much better starting with no choke in warm weather. But I've seen some newer carbs with no idle mix screw just like the clone carbs, on carts I don't know if its hidden or not there anymore since I have not seen one. IMO for $20 I'm going to put a scooter carb on the stock clone my CV carb is working so much better on the other one. For my app I will have to make another intake because its in a G9, but all I need is a sink drain and going to make more intakes anyway. Have spare hose and clamps from my intake.