36v series cart unsure of the year..solenoid click but no go

[twilliams81]

I've done the continuity test and it passes that. Is there another bench test to do that I'm unaware of?

[twilliams81]

Are there any other bench test for motors other than the continuity test on the four posts?

[Mooncarter]

Originally Posted by twilliams81

Are there any other bench test for motors other than the continuity test on the four posts?

Yes, it is easily done using a 12 volt battery. Search "testing a series motor."

However, I have never done it without the motor on a transaxle, and I'm not sure that you can/should do it that way without it flying apart. Do you have another rear you can put it on?

[twilliams81]

Ok guys I’ve got the cart finally running but still have one issue. As soon as the solenoid engages the cart slams into gear and is at wide open speed. I’ve replaced the controller, F&R switch, ITS, solenoid, and had the motor fully serviced. I was told that initially my problem could have lied within the four pin connector between the ITS and the controller so I butt connected them all in. Could me doing that have caused some sort of resistance issue and now that’s why it’s running wide open as soon as you mash the pedal?


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[scottyb]

What is the throttle code the LED status light gives when the solenoid just clicks? See your manual for blink codes. It may be programmed for the wrong signal if you have verified the throttle signal is good?

[twilliams81]

Originally Posted by scottyb

What is the throttle code the LED status light gives when the solenoid just clicks? See your manual for blink codes. It may be programmed for the wrong signal if you have verified the throttle signal is good?

This is just the stock 5 pin Curtis controller. There isn't an LED indicator light to show faults.