sent controller out for repair

[bly]

I sent the controller out for repair because some of the trouble shooting steps seem to indicate a problem there.
It was sent back as ok. had in the paper work some test to run on the motor. some of those test failed.
I am thinking its the speed sensor on the motor because the rear wheels will turn when cart is off the ground, but when on the ground the cart will lurch forward but wont move. any ideas of what to check next?

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by bly

I sent the controller out for repair because some of the trouble shooting steps seem to indicate a problem there.
It was sent back as ok. had in the paper work some test to run on the motor. some of those test failed.
I am thinking its the speed sensor on the motor because the rear wheels will turn when cart is off the ground, but when on the ground the cart will lurch forward but wont move. any ideas of what to check next?

What were the tests?
Which of them failed?
-----------------------------
What type drive system does cart have?
----------
Sounds like the battery pack cannot supply the amps needed to propel the cart, or the amps are not getting from battery pack to motor.

What is the battery pack voltage?
What does the battery pack voltage drop to when you try to drive cart on level ground?

[bly]

The motor is an advanced d.c. motor Ratings au2500 flt spd 07/30/04 36v
Curtis has a sheet that requires you to check windings
Check ohms between a1 and a2 .3 to 1 ohm. mine checked with 1 ohm.
check f1 and f2 -1 to 2 ohms. mine checked with 1 ohm
check a1 to f1 should be open. mine checked open
check f1 to casing of motor s/b > then 5 ohms. mine check open.

drive w/b direct drive. shaft comes out of differential, motor slipson the shaft

[scottyb]

Originally Posted by bly

The motor is an advanced d.c. motor Ratings au2500 flt spd 07/30/04 36v
Curtis has a sheet that requires you to check windings
Check ohms between a1 and a2 .3 to 1 ohm. mine checked with 1 ohm.
check f1 and f2 -1 to 2 ohms. mine checked with 1 ohm
check a1 to f1 should be open. mine checked open
check f1 to casing of motor s/b > then 5 ohms. mine check open.

drive w/b direct drive. shaft comes out of differential, motor slipson the shaft

Something of this nature should be stickied to the top of all the tech sections.

[Wynelocked]

Originally Posted by scottyb

Something of this nature should be stickied to the top of all the tech sections.

Same people I used.Those are their test procedures.Good info

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by scottyb

Something of this nature should be stickied to the top of all the tech sections.

This is from the controller installation instructions provided by FSIP.

There is a different checkout for Series, DCS, PDS and TXT-48 motors, each with slightly different Ohmic values, and the motor's stud labeling is wrong on the Series and DCS checklists. (In checklist as F1 & F2 rather the S1 & S2 as they are labeled on Series and DCS motors)

They probably have check lists (installation instructions) for other brand carts also.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by bly

The motor is an advanced d.c. motor Ratings au2500 flt spd 07/30/04 36v
Curtis has a sheet that requires you to check windings
Check ohms between a1 and a2 .3 to 1 ohm. mine checked with 1 ohm.
check f1 and f2 -1 to 2 ohms. mine checked with 1 ohm
check a1 to f1 should be open. mine checked open
check f1 to casing of motor s/b > then 5 ohms. mine check open.

drive w/b direct drive. shaft comes out of differential, motor slipson the shaft

Looks like the motor passes those tests, and the tires spin when off the ground, so everything is working, but doesn't work when on the ground.

A bad speed sensor will not keep the cart from moving. It just won't run at normal speed.

Put the controller into diagnostic mode (text at bottom of attached label tells you how) and find out what error codes are beeped.