99 DS 48v Won"t Move

[Oyster Bay Golf Links]

A9917-759440

Cart has brand new batteries, fully charged. I have 48v on both sides of the solenoid. Replaced the solenoid with with the new style and have the same results. Did the motor continuity test and checked out fine. Cart will also excite the charger and work correctly. What else can I check before I replace the f/r switch or the controller? Kenny

[Oyster Bay Golf Links]

Also, I do not get the back up buzzer to come on.

[Golferdave]

Does the solenoid click ?

[Golferdave]

To send 48 volts to the controller :
48 volt solenoid has to engage,
to engage the 48 volt solenoid
Key Sw on, micro sw in the Vglide closes when the pedal is pushed, Fwd or Rvs micro sw' on the. F/R sw closes

For the controller to send voltage to the motor
It has to get a signal from the go pedal Vglide ( 1999 use 5k to 0 ohms signal)

The voltage from the controller goes thru the Fwd/Rvs sw to the motor

[Oyster Bay Golf Links]

The solenoid is brand new and working correctly. The old one was stuck in the closed position.

[Oyster Bay Golf Links]

UPDATE::::

I found the video on youtube for testing these carts. The low amp circuit works correctly to the solenoid. The low amp circuit to the controller is working properly. The v-glide circuit ohms correctly. The motor continuity test was correct. The OBC bypass test made no difference. The charging circuit is working properly.

I am not getting more than 24V out the ground of the controller. It stays that voltage no matter where the pedal is at. I also have voltage on the positive side on the controller with the cart off, which gradually falls while holding a volt meter on it.

Is there any other test I need to do before replacing the controller and what controller do you recommend?

[Sergio]

Originally Posted by Oyster Bay Golf Links

UPDATE::::

I found the video on youtube for testing these carts. The low amp circuit works correctly to the solenoid. The low amp circuit to the controller is working properly. The v-glide circuit ohms correctly. The motor continuity test was correct. The OBC bypass test made no difference. The charging circuit is working properly.

I am not getting more than 24V out the ground of the controller. It stays that voltage no matter where the pedal is at. I also have voltage on the positive side on the controller with the cart off, which gradually falls while holding a volt meter on it.

Is there any other test I need to do before replacing the controller and what controller do you recommend?

If the solenoid is clicking, then there is no reason to try to by-pass the OBC lockout since there is no problem.

What do You mean by "Ground Side", the M- Controller PWM output?

If the Voltage is dropping on Controller B+, You must not have the pre-charge resistor installed.

Do a simple test:

Disconnect the pack negative battery cable for safety.

Put the FNR in Forward.

Set your meter for "Continuity test".

Disconnect the cable from Controller M- and check for Continuity between that cable end and Controller B+.

Put the FNR on reverse and test the continuity again.

If the Cables, FNR and Motor are good, You should have continuity on both tests.