Brake switch hook up

[paul1968]

Originally Posted by BobBoyce

Hey there Paul

Ouch, I did not see those voltages posted before. That is definitely a problem. With the loading of the relay coil, those voltages are WAY off. I doubt it is the relay itself. The Brake Light PWM output is not operating properly. You must have posted that while I was typing in my last message.

With the relay in and slowing down or braking, the voltage should be near 24V. It definitely sounds like the brake light relay voltage coming from the controller has an issue. It could be the harness wire between the controller and the terminal at the end of the purple relay wire, but I doubt it. If you want to check it, flip your run/tow switch to tow. Then unplug the large 35 pin connector from the controller. Using your meter in continuity mode, check continuity of the purple wire between pin 4 of the controller connector and the terminal at the end of the purple wire. I suspect it will test ok. Another issue could be the 48V coming from the red relay wire. Again, I suspect that will test ok. Blowing the fuse earlier pretty much confirms it was hot.

That leaves us with the very real possibility that for some reason, someone altered the brake light relay parameters. I don't understand why someone would want to do that for no reason. It would take someone with an OEM handset or programmer to do that. Unless someone went in there and intentionally disabled the brake light output, there is only one logical reason to do that.

Curtis controllers are very configurable. For example, say your main solenoid, or your motor brake output fails. You can literally remap another output to replace it and not have to send that controller in for repair, or replace it.

If your pin 4 at the controller checks out for continuity with the terminal at the purple relay wire, then more than likely remapping was not done, because they would have had to swap wires around to remap that output for another purpose.

See if someone on here is near you with an OEM handset or programmer that can check it for you. Otherwise, you may just have to add a seperate brake light switch to your brake pedal. There are aftermarket options. That is not as good as the controller managing your brake lights, but at this point, it may be your easiest option. I wish you were closer to me.

Bob

Bob prior to install the relay I have 48v at purple and red and once relay is connected it drops to 3v across red and purple and that is at a standstill not moving. Disconnect the reply and I'm back to 48v across red and purple.

I just went out and pulled pin from controller and have continuity between 35 pin connector and spade connectors on both red and purple.

[cgtech]

Heres another idea, try ezgo part number 604110. It's the relay that belongs in that location. I had nothing but bad luck trying other solenoid combos. While I realize the Pwm can be easily adjusted, the inexperienced could likely adjust it to draw too much current. I work at the dealer & found it easiest to just use the intended one. Which I found is also the same relay as the walk-away relay used on older 48v txt style industrial products. They seem to like that relay for outputs on curtis controllers.

[paul1968]

Originally Posted by cgtech

Heres another idea, try ezgo part number 604110. It's the relay that belongs in that location. I had nothing but bad luck trying other solenoid combos. While I realize the Pwm can be easily adjusted, the inexperienced could likely adjust it to draw too much current. I work at the dealer & found it easiest to just use the intended one. Which I found is also the same relay as the walk-away relay used on older 48v txt style industrial products. They seem to like that relay for outputs on curtis controllers.

Ok I could do that I never knew about that one. I just asked for advice about wiring a switch in and found out about the relay I never knew about all this. Is this the relay I need for 2014 rxv. I looked at that number for the relay and it said it was for a different cart on buggies unlimited

[paul1968]

Let me ask a couple question that may better help me understand why this doesn't work

1-If I have 48v coming from the motor on purple/red with key on at a standstill prior to hooking up relay is this correct?
2-After I hook purple/red to relay 85-86 with the key in the on at a standstill what should voltage be?
3- While operating the cart what should volts go down to approximately on 85-86?
4- While braking what should volts be?
I have 48v prior to at purple/red being installed on 85-86 then drop down to what I think is -3v at stand still then-6v,-7v while moving and braking.

[BobBoyce]

Originally Posted by paul1968

Ok I could do that I never knew about that one. I just asked for advice about wiring a switch in and found out about the relay I never knew about all this. Is this the relay I need for 2014 rxv. I looked at that number for the relay and it said it was for a different cart on buggies unlimited

The factory one I have looks exactly like that one.
It is a Tyco Electronics (TE Connectivity) part number VF4-65H11-SO8

Also available from

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/.../VF4-65H11-S08

and

https://www.arrow.com/en/products/vf...e-connectivity

and

https://www.tencell.com/products/VF4-65H11-S08.html

[paul1968]

Originally Posted by BobBoyce

Yea, I would be tempted to give up too if I wasn't an OEM. I understand these processes very well and have the tools to work with these things. At this point, it makes sense for you to just add an external brake light switch. But I will explain what is happening so that you can try to understand it.

Basically, the voltage dropped from the 48V supplied is on the "ground" side of the relay, by rapidly pulsing that output FET on and off. With no load, you'll read the full 48V, but when you load it with the relay coil, the pulse width sets the average applied voltage. PWMs are very sensitive to relay coil impedance. It looks like someone changed your Brake Light PWM setting to a value of around 2%. With a stock relay coil, that would result in a brake coil voltage of about 0.96V. Your brake relay has a bit of a lower impedance, so that is what results in your 0.6V - 0.7V reading. As if that is not complicated enough, there are 2 PWM settings, pull in and hold in. Pull in is full voltage rating, and hold in is usually 3/4 of that. This is to reduce heating of the coil on relays and solenoids, ect.

In order to properly support the relay you have, the Brake Light PWM parameter in your controller would need to be increased to about 60% in order to support the lower impedance of your relay. If your parameter was set to the stock 50%, it would still be applying about 21V at the relay coil. That is close enough to operate, so it's not likely the fault of your relay. It's more likely the setting of that parameter in your controller. If I were there with my handset, I could fix it for you in a couple of minutes. It's such an easy fix.

Bob

Bob I'm sorry I totally missed this reply by you earlier today. Would you say for sake of argument my best bet at this point is to buy a brake switch and deal with it?

[paul1968]

Originally Posted by BobBoyce

The factory one I have looks exactly like that one.
It is a Tyco Electronics (TE Connectivity) part number VF4-65H11-SO8

Also available from

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/.../VF4-65H11-S08

and

https://www.arrow.com/en/products/vf...e-connectivity

and

https://www.tencell.com/products/VF4-65H11-S08.html

Bob should I bother with any of these relays or go straight to a switch? Not sure if you saw the questions I asked above 1,2,3,4. If you could possibly answer them it may help me better understand

[BobBoyce]

Originally Posted by paul1968

Bob should I bother with any of these relays or go straight to a switch? Not sure if you saw the questions I asked above 1,2,3,4. If you could possibly answer them it may help me better understand

I missed that because you must have posted it while I was typing my posts. I thought the voltages you posted earlier were .3 .6 and .7 volts. It makes a difference.

If you are reading 6 to 7 volts, that is a different matter than if you are reading a tenth of that. The spec for the E-Z-GO relay coil is 360 ohms impedance at the PWM pulse frequency. That works out to be about 317 ohms at DC, which is what an ohm meter reads. The tolerance is +/- 5%.

Just go with the brake switch, it'll be easier for you.

[G22Yamaha]

I Connected RHOX LGT 164 to MADJAX 02-18 Ultimate Light Kit Harness on a 2004 Yamaha G22AZ Golf Cart

1. Mount LGT 164 Brake Switch Bracket on left of Brake Peddle and not used the Brake connector Pigtail
2. Brown wire Time Delay to MadJax Yellow Brake wire harness
3. Black Fused Brake Switch wire to MadJax Red Brake Wire harness
4. Black wire Time Delay To MadJax Black Wire Brake wire Harness
I did not use the brake bracket, made my own ,mounted in rear of the brake cable bracket and connected brake switch spring to the cable bar where the left and right cables are connected.