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Electric EZGO Electric EZ GO Marathon, Medalist, TXT and RXV.



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Old 02-09-2018, 01:00 AM   #21
konakid
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Default Re: Controller Code 39 - Please Help

I hope someone is still with me on this one, as I have some more clues.

I found a guy on this island that says he can work on Cushmans - but for $129/hr including travel time. So, last resort of course. However, he did give me a used (but working) solenoid to swap out and test. You can see my mess in pic below.

But nothing changed. Exact same problem and error code. But here are some clues I hope may help someone help me.
- When I first hooked batteries back up, I got a slowly blinking yellow light - error code was gone - I thought "success." But when I turned key on, back to exact same issue.
- I discovered two fuses next to controller (you can see in pic), they are both fine.
- You can see a relay next to controller and fuses. This is what is making the clicking noise when I turn key - so, nothing from the solenoid - and error of "main contactor did not close" appears to be accurate - but why? Could it be the relay?
- I checked the pedal box, because I talked to a tech at Curtis and he mentioned something about throttle issue (error 52) and something about "out of sequence start." Inside of box looks like it just came off showroom. Microswitch adjusted and working perfectly. And pedal returning all the way up when let up on.

So, that doesn't leave much else. F/R switch, reed switch (this does have an onboard charger). Does anyone have any other ideas, I'm afraid I'm near a dead end?
-
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Old 02-09-2018, 05:10 AM   #22
BobBoyce
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Default Re: Controller Code 39 - Please Help

There is no traditional F/N/R switch on AC drive carts. It's just a selector switch for 2 input wires on the controller, one to select forward and the other to select reverse. Neither selected is neutral.

You must make sure that there is + 72V applied to the + side of the solenoid coil (small terminals). Otherwise the controller will get a Main Coil OC error.
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Old 02-09-2018, 08:35 AM   #23
mjroman20
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Default Re: Controller Code 39 - Please Help

Startup sequence on these 123x controls is not as picky as a golf control (by default) but depending on the VCL installed they can add in all those little quirks golf carts have as far as SRO and HPD sequencing. One thing I can say, to add to what Bob was saying, while none of these inputs are hard coded for specific purposes (as they can all be changed to do whatever) there are some setup for streamlining the programming process. These include:
Pin22 - FWD
Pin33 - REV
Pin 9 - Interlock **
Pin 6 - Line contactor

Depending on how this is setup, I would suggest verifying pin 9 when attempting to drive. The interlock state can be set to follow KSI, follow VCL specific commands, or follow the state of pin 9. If the interlock state is 0 you'll likely get faults.

Additionally however some of those other available input pins may also be used for pedal start switch, parking brake, "key" switch. Since the 123x do not have these items by default they need to be added in via programming and won't be referenced as such in the Curtis manual for the control.
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Old 02-09-2018, 04:22 PM   #24
konakid
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Default Re: Controller Code 39 - Please Help

Thanks a million guys - very useful input.

Please: I see the fault code mention a "cure" is to cycle KSI. And you also mentioned KSI. I can't find anywhere explaining what the heck KSI is - or how to cycle. Someone told me it is the kill (deadman's) switch, like some lawn tractors have in the seat. But that doesn't sound right.

What is it, and can I cycle it without fancy equipment?
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Old 02-09-2018, 05:11 PM   #25
cgtech
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Default Re: Controller Code 39 - Please Help

KSI = keyswitch. Try firing it up with f&r in neutral.
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Old 02-09-2018, 05:46 PM   #26
konakid
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Default Re: Controller Code 39 - Please Help

Quote:
Originally Posted by cgtech View Post
KSI = keyswitch. Try firing it up with f&r in neutral.
Thanks - that's why I couldn't find out what it was - too obvious. :)

In F,N,or R, and key on (or key on and lights too - light switch is on KSI) I get just the 39 error.

When key is off I'm getting the 39 error in N - BUT when in F or R I also get the 52 error. I bet this means something to someone who knows.
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Old 02-09-2018, 06:05 PM   #27
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Default Re: Controller Code 39 - Please Help

Quote:
Originally Posted by konakid View Post
Thanks - that's why I couldn't find out what it was - too obvious. :)

In F,N,or R, and key on (or key on and lights too - light switch is on KSI) I get just the 39 error.

When key is off I'm getting the 39 error in N - BUT when in F or R I also get the 52 error. I bet this means something to someone who knows.
Hey konakid... Did you get this Cushman in working condition. or did you get it with this issue?

It reminds me of a generic Curtis AC controller that has not been loaded with the correct Vehicle Control Language (VCL).
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Old 02-10-2018, 12:35 AM   #28
konakid
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Default Re: Controller Code 39 - Please Help

Quote:
Originally Posted by BobBoyce View Post
Hey konakid... Did you get this Cushman in working condition. or did you get it with this issue?

It reminds me of a generic Curtis AC controller that has not been loaded with the correct Vehicle Control Language (VCL).
Bob - bought it brand new - 2 1/2 years ago. Of course the 2 yr. warranty is over. Never had an issue of any kind. But I should have paid attention to the blinking lights before I knew what they meant. I may of had an error code flashing this whole time. But, as said, it ran flawlessly this whole time.

Is it the dealers that load up the language, or should it have come from the factory with the correct VCL. It was ordered from the factory (through the dealer), and I never visited the dealer to see if they had a lot of Cushmans (or experience with Cushmans). I just found a dealer in So. California that would sell me one and ship it to Hawaii.

So, you may be on to something - but I wouldn't know how to explain the 2 1/2 years of trouble free operation.
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Old 02-10-2018, 04:02 AM   #29
BobBoyce
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Default Re: Controller Code 39 - Please Help

Quote:
Originally Posted by konakid View Post
Bob - bought it brand new - 2 1/2 years ago. Of course the 2 yr. warranty is over. Never had an issue of any kind. But I should have paid attention to the blinking lights before I knew what they meant. I may of had an error code flashing this whole time. But, as said, it ran flawlessly this whole time.

Is it the dealers that load up the language, or should it have come from the factory with the correct VCL. It was ordered from the factory (through the dealer), and I never visited the dealer to see if they had a lot of Cushmans (or experience with Cushmans). I just found a dealer in So. California that would sell me one and ship it to Hawaii.

So, you may be on to something - but I wouldn't know how to explain the 2 1/2 years of trouble free operation.
It's the vehicle manufacturer, or Curtis on behalf of the vehicle manufacturer, that sets up a VCL to support any additional I/O pins on the controller that will be needed for the application. The VCL is where operational parameters, vehicle specific onboard diagnostics, and error codes, are defined.

Operating system software and VCL are stored in memory within the controller, and can become corrupted by power glitches. The best thing that can be done is for a dealer or shop with the ability to make a backup of the controller while it is fresh and new, to be saved for restore at a later date, in case of corruption or damage to the factory controller. The 123X series of controllers are a generic AC controller that is easy to find, however, any vehicle specific code would need to be loaded into an off-the-shelf replacement in order to support the customization.

That being said, without being familiar with the VCL, nobody can really help you address any issues related to the customized code that has been applied. You would have to find the manuals for your specific vehicle/controller combination. Someone like me, a former custom vehicle manufacture, would use my programmer to read out the OS and VCL code, reverse engineer the VCL, and try to work out what the VCL is looking for. Unfortunately, besides Currtis employees, there are probably less than a handful of people on the planet with the equipment and experience to do this.

My advice to you would be to try to get your hands on the technical manuals for your vehicle from the manufacturer or dealer. The manual that I posted earlier in this thread is what is available from Curtis for a new controller without a VCL programmed into it.

Bob
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Old 02-10-2018, 02:05 PM   #30
konakid
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Default Re: Controller Code 39 - Please Help

Quote:
Originally Posted by BobBoyce View Post
It's the vehicle manufacturer, or Curtis on behalf of the vehicle manufacturer, that sets up a VCL to support any additional I/O pins on the controller that will be needed for the application. The VCL is where operational parameters, vehicle specific onboard diagnostics, and error codes, are defined.

Operating system software and VCL are stored in memory within the controller, and can become corrupted by power glitches. The best thing that can be done is for a dealer or shop with the ability to make a backup of the controller while it is fresh and new, to be saved for restore at a later date, in case of corruption or damage to the factory controller. The 123X series of controllers are a generic AC controller that is easy to find, however, any vehicle specific code would need to be loaded into an off-the-shelf replacement in order to support the customization.

That being said, without being familiar with the VCL, nobody can really help you address any issues related to the customized code that has been applied. You would have to find the manuals for your specific vehicle/controller combination. Someone like me, a former custom vehicle manufacture, would use my programmer to read out the OS and VCL code, reverse engineer the VCL, and try to work out what the VCL is looking for. Unfortunately, besides Currtis employees, there are probably less than a handful of people on the planet with the equipment and experience to do this.

My advice to you would be to try to get your hands on the technical manuals for your vehicle from the manufacturer or dealer. The manual that I posted earlier in this thread is what is available from Curtis for a new controller without a VCL programmed into it.

Bob
Thanks Bob - very informative. Now I have to figure out how/where to go from here.

Can you tell me this? I will assume this came from the factory programmed correctly. If an electric dump (a Cushman accessory) was added at the dealership, would/could that require a re-programming of the controller?

The dump motor switch is always "hot" - so I don't think this is the case. But I'm just grasping at straws at the moment. It sounds as if programming the VLC is not a simple task and even an inexperienced tech at a dealership could screw it up. I'm wondering if this is something that is usually messed with at the dealership level.

I guess it would depend on how they wired it - but if it is not "directly" into the battery pack and routed through the controller "loop" somehow - I'm thinking that could be why/where that error 52 (OEM custom code) could be coming from. I can't shake the recollection that I saw a blinking red light at times on the controller from day one - not realizing at the time that it was even the controller that was blinking - it was enclosed in a box with only a very small window to see any lights.
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