Wiring for 3 Position Key Switch

[scottyb]

A heat sink mount for a voltage reducer is not an altogether bad idea They do generate heat and usually have a smallish aluminum 'heat sink' base.

[smuponies]

Just finished all the work. I posted a few final pictures in my album located here.

Cart runs great. I am getting 12MPH up some steep hills. I was crawling up them before. Thanks to ScottyB for all the help with the controller, voltage reducer, etc!

I'm sure there will be more at a later date, but for now I am going to enjoy!

Drew

[ragmop1]

I've been following this thread and just when I thought I knew what I was doing, mt brain went into overload and stopped functioning. I'm replacing my standard 2 post switch with a 4 post, 3 position switch, and installing a soc digital meter. I thought I saw on a wiring schem. that the green wire to the ign. switch was positive and the blue was neg. However, when I put the red lead of the dvm on the blue wire and the blk lead on the neg battery post I get 36volts. Red lead to green wire and blk lead to neg battery post gets 0 volts. Am I to assume then the blue wire to the old ign. switch is "hot" (or positive)? If so, then that blue wire would go to the B spade on the switch, and the green to the I spade. One more question. Am I making any sense?

[scottyb]

In a switch you typically only have one polarity. That is because it takes 2 polarities (positive and negative) to complete a circuit... a complete circuit is a light bulb illuminating or a starter energized or a solenoid activated. Since it takes both polarities to complete a circuit if we interrupt either one the circuit is incomplete .... Wrap your brain around that

In a 2 pole switch there are 2 contacts and a movable contact which connects the contacts in one position and disconnects them in the other. That in a nut shell is your stock switch and why you will only find one polarity in and one polarity out = in this case 36v positive. Got it? If so proceed

The 4 post switch is actually 2 single switches side by side. one B to I connects just like your old switch... next to it is the 12v lighting switch. B1 to L.
Terminals are marked
B1 = Battery 12v+
L = Lights
I = Ignition
B = Battery 36v +
Position 2 is B>I
Position 3 is B>I and B1>L

[ragmop1]

Oops! I forgot to mention I've got a 2000 ezgo txt with an aftermarket light kit. I'm going to get a dc-dc reducer to power the lights and maybe a radio later on. I used a 2 battery tap for 12 volts for the last 3 years or so, and as a result, had to buy new batteries last week. The guy I bought the batteries from told me to get a voltage reducer to extend battery life. I did a google search and found buggiesgonewild. Wish I'd found you guys a few years ago.

[scottyb]

But you found us now And you have a very smart Battery Guy

[smuponies]

ScottyB can definitely hook you up with a Voltage Reducer. I got mine from him and it works swimmingly. I would recommend an extra aluminum controller mount heat sink if you can find one.

I posted a close up of my switch wiring here. You'll see a black plastic loom on the left. There are 4 wires in it. Originally it was just the green and blue wire, but I added a yellow wire which is connected to my battery pack positive and a red wire which is connected to my battery pack negative.

I have my blue wire going into the switch on the far left. I believe that is the 'B' position. When the switch is turned to the first of two 'on' positions, it flows the voltage through to the red wire connected at the 'I' position. That red wire goes to my soc meter which is connected in parallel to the original green wire. The other side of the soc meter is the red wire that goes through the loom and back to the battery pack negative.

When the key is turned to the second of two 'on' positions it connects the yellow wire (again from battery pack positive) to the B+ connection on the voltage reducer. That basically completes the circuit to send 36V to the voltage reducer, which in turn sends 12V back up to my accessory area through a loom from the other side.

I am certainly not an expert with electrical circuits, and may have done something slightly less than correct, but it is working great for me so far.

I hope this helps you out!

Drew

[ragmop1]

yes, both replies helped alot. I've got the blue wire to the B terminal, green wire to the I terminal on switch and jumped over to #4 on soc meter. Pos. battery to #1 and neg battery to #2 on soc meter. Meter comes on when key is turned to ign. and/or lights. So far, so good.

[scottyb]

Good to hear ...

[K2merckx]

I know that I am the new guy here but I have a question after looking at your picture. Is your fuse block going to be reachable once you rivet the front cowling back on? I can't imagine you are going to drill out all your rivets every time you were to blow a fuse. The only reason I ask is because I would like to do the same thing but would be worried about getting to fuses even is it happens infrequently.