Wiring for 3 Position Key Switch

[smuponies]

Yeah, that is a good point. The only place I used rivets on the front cowl were the 7 plastic ones above the glove box areas...for looks. They are very easy to drill out and replace. Everything else I just used lock nuts and bolts.

I've had it like that for about a month and have used it several times. No problems with noise or movement. Works just as good as the rivets. The front cowl is so light and small I don't think it really needs rivets.

[rz6kdt]

Question on the way this is shown wired in Scotty's diagram. It appears teh only way the reducer will get power is when you are in forward or reverse, correct? I have mine powered off the batter pack so there is power all the time.
Shoudl I then run 12 volts out of my reducer to the B1 terminal and then 12 volts out of terminal I to my fuse block?

[todo_brane_ded]

Originally Posted by rz6kdt

Question on the way this is shown wired in Scotty's diagram. It appears teh only way the reducer will get power is when you are in forward or reverse, correct? I have mine powered off the batter pack so there is power all the time.
Shoudl I then run 12 volts out of my reducer to the B1 terminal and then 12 volts out of terminal I to my fuse block?

I'm still looking for a reducer in Scottb's diagram. I don't see one....

Anyway, in my PDS the 36V to the input (and output if ON) on the Ignition switch is lost in NUETRAL. The controller removes it. In NUETRAL it is 0V.

If however you are using the second set of contacts on the switch you can overcome this problem by wiring that side directly to 36 volts (B+ hard) so that your load, the reducer, will have 36 volts regardless of the Direction switch position..

caveat- I don't know if this is true on a non-PDS cart.....

[rz6kdt]

The reducer is shown in the first post. My concern with the set up when in Neutral or switching back and forth is that the radio staion would be lost or other accessories going out.
I just got done wiring the 12 volts out of the reducer to the B1 terminal and then 12 Volts out of the I terminal back to the fuse block. Works as it should. I also wired a toggle switch on the feed side of the reducer so when I am away long periods I can power that off as well.

[todo_brane_ded]

Originally Posted by rz6kdt

The reducer is shown in the first post. My concern with the set up when in Neutral or switching back and forth is that the radio staion would be lost or other accessories going out.
I just got done wiring the 12 volts out of the reducer to the B1 terminal and then 12 Volts out of the I terminal back to the fuse block. Works as it should. I also wired a toggle switch on the feed side of the reducer so when I am away long periods I can power that off as well.

Yeah, now I see it.....Don't know why I didn't see it before??

Yes, in a PDS car you will see a 'drop-out' of power to all accessories when switching to Nuetral to either FWD or REV in this setup.

In a PDS cart you can alleviate this anomaly by using the second set of contacts on the IGN switch to input to the Reducer input (36v) by attaching to the Forward Reverse Switch center pole.

It has a hard 36 volts on it at all times however even in this setup you're likely to lose your radio memory as you'll lose 12v from the reducer when the IGN switch is off.....

If you harwire the reducer to the 36 volts at all times I would want to know what the quiescent power consumption of the reducer is under no load.
All conversion devices consume power even when they are idle and have no load connected to them (unless of course they're shut off completely).....

If too high then it could, and likely will, run your pack down or at a minimum take longer to charge....

Orrrr, you just use a 12v aux battery and have far less complexity/headaches

[wizardket]

The same issue with a Series cart as I have said on several occasions. No power to the switch in neutral. Also the way it is wired from the factory, the reverse buzzer will sound with the key off. I rewired mine so power goes to the switch first. I also have a relay hooked up so the switch does not see heavy loads, it is only for a lite control load. The 3 position switch is different but I did not want to buy one.

[wizardket]

I have put together some diagrams to show some wiring options. The first is the stock wiring for a 96 TXT Series cart. The second is how I used my stock switch to switch the 12v Acc/Lights and added a volt meter (from Scottyb). I also did not like the lack of fuses. The third is the same as the second but with a voltage reducer. The volt meter can be on either side of the switch depending on if you want it on all the time or not. I went with it on all the time.
EZGO_Stock.jpgEZGO_Custom.jpgEZGO_Custom_r.jpg

[todo_brane_ded]

Wiz, I've got to ask if you lose memory in radio with this setup.....(the last one you show)......

I don't see any 12V to retain memory in a radio when using a reducer unless it's connected 100% of the time.

[wizardket]

I do not have a radio. #3 would lose memory. Only way with a reducer would be to have it on all the time and that would be battery loss. The relay lets you pull / control power from anywhere so you could use a separate 12v battery.