Car audio ring terminals?

[Furyous]

I am now fully into the build, having torn the cart apart and cut off the rusty metal, now ready to weld in new pieces and have been planning the electrics. I noticed something as I look at all of the finished carts posted here- I can't seem to find any that use car audio amplifier ring terminals for the battery wiring. I would think that their design for high current and corrosion resistance would make them ideal. Is there a reason everyone uses standard ring terminals?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[JohnnieB]

If they were the closed end type and can be sealed so the acid laden air in the battery compartment can't get into the cable strands, they should work okay.

Of course, forking over an extra $100 or so on ring terminals might be a deciding factor.

[rlw]

I bought copper battery lugs at O'Reilly Auto Parts in 10-packs for $13 or so. 4 gauge - 5/16" hole. They didn't have 'em in stock, but I ordered them at around 4 PM on Thursday, and they were at the store at 7:30 AM the next day.

They're the type that are made from a piece of 1/4" ID copper tubing. Solder end flared, lug end flattened and drilled. Non-tinned. You need to tighten the crimp so the solder doesn't leak out (here's a link to YouTube video on how to solder them - http://youtu.be/zssIlnwH8dY)

That was the best price I could find locally in SE Ohio. Some places wanted to sell a blister pack of 2 for $6. Even the electrical supply house in town wanted $2.79 a pop for 'em.

For cabling, it was cheaper to buy a 20' 4 gauge jumper cable at O'Reilly ($39.99 - about a buck a foot) than to buy bulk 4 gauge wire at $2/foot. The jumper cable is >100 strands, very flexible, 3/8" insulation. Only problem is you get 20' of white wire and 20' of black wire. I can live with that to save $40.

RLW

[yurtle]

Originally Posted by Furious

I noticed something as I look at all of the finished carts posted here- I can't seem to find any that use car audio amplifier ring terminals for the battery wiring. I would think that their design for high current and corrosion resistance would make them ideal. Is there a reason everyone uses standard ring terminals?

I used marine grade, goo-filled heat-shrink lugs for my low current connections. Marine grade stuff is a little costly, but has to hold up to salt and acid.

[yurtle]

If you're talking about the high current lugs, I bought normal copper lugs, and used colored goo-filled heat-shrink, then silver plated them.

Can't post pics now, but scroll down to post #72.

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...uestion-8.html

[Furyous]

Thanks a bunch, guys!

I especially like the jumper cable idea. Too bad I already bought 2 20' reels of 2 ga power wire. It has a clear blue insulation, so it should look pretty.

I might go with the copper lugs and cover them with the heat shrink that has heat activated goo on the inside. I had good luck with the stuff in a marine application. If I can find a good deal on the car audio terminals, I may spring for it. I want it to look perfect under the seats.

Another question- I wanted to install a power cord that retracts so I can just pull it from the cart, but all the retractable ones only have the female plug that can be pulled frothe device. I did ind one for a Ford think electric car, but it was $180. Anybody ever rework a retractable cord to do this, or is there one already available? I prefer not to swap male and female ends by cutting, soldering, and covering the wire.




Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[simple man]

I would imagine you could get one of these and just reverse the cord in it.
http://www.harborfreight.com/catalog...sion+cord+reel

[yurtle]

Or you could leave the cord the same and build a gender bender.

[Furyous]

Thanks!

I also found some on EBay that are made for certain vacuum cleaner models. Might take some fabrication, but it would be sooooo cool just to grab a plug and pull it to the nearest outlet. I'll give it a try.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[yurtle]

What do you plan on using this for? How many amps and what size wire does it need to be?

I have one I might be willing to part with, but it's only 18 AWG.