Almost there!!!! Last minute advice.

[deerhunter88]

also there is a fuse looking bar where the charger receiver wires actually hook to the batteries. Im wondering if that needed to be changed with everything else now that i went to 48Vs? If something was wrong with that the charger would have showed a fault i would think.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by deerhunter88

Its the first time i ever put them on charge. Everything seemed to be hooked up right but i could be wrong. I wired all the batteries the same way the 6vs were originally hooked up. Neg to pos and so on. Could it be because i dont have the cables coming from the controller hooked up? I wouldnt think that would matter.

Originally Posted by deerhunter88

also there is a fuse looking bar where the charger receiver wires actually hook to the batteries. Im wondering if that needed to be changed with everything else now that i went to 48Vs? If something was wrong with that the charger would have showed a fault i would think.

As long as the batteries are connected in series and the charger is connected to the first Negative and last Positive in the string, it shouldn't matter if they are connected to anything else or not.

The fuse thingy is probably okay, or the DPI would have puked instead of quickly cycling to a green light. The charge current on a 48V DPI is about the same as it is on a 36V DPI, so the same fuse will be fine.

One thing I didn't take into consideration was 8V batteries have fewer AH than 6V batteries, but that shouldn't have reduced the initial charge on new batteries to less than about 4 to 8 hours.

Maybe the dealer charged them or they were so fresh from the factory they hadn't dropped down from the polarizing charge yet.

Need to know the pack and individual battery voltages after 12 hours rest, to know if the batteries are fully charged or not.

You need to get a DVM and add a DVM type SoC gauge to your dash.

[deerhunter88]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

As long as the batteries are connected in series and the charger is connected to the first Negative and last Positive in the string, it shouldn't matter if they are connected to anything else or not.

The fuse thingy is probably okay, or the DPI would have puked instead of quickly cycling to a green light. The charge current on a 48V DPI is about the same as it is on a 36V DPI, so the same fuse will be fine.

One thing I didn't take into consideration was 8V batteries have fewer AH than 6V batteries, but that shouldn't have reduced the initial charge on new batteries to less than about 4 to 8 hours.

Maybe the dealer charged them or they were so fresh from the factory they hadn't dropped down from the polarizing charge yet.

Need to know the pack and individual battery voltages after 12 hours rest, to know if the batteries are fully charged or not.

You need to get a DVM and add a DVM type SoC gauge to your dash.

Yeah i wish i would have seen the SOC meter that scottyb sells before i bought the digital one i got. I jumped the gun on that before doing my research.