2008 Ezgo RXV starter generator getting hot

[Swarty73]

Just picked up a 2008 gas RXV that was under water when this guy's shop was flooded a couple of weeks ago. Has a 350cc single cylinder Kawasaki engine. I drained the fuel, blew the fuel lines out, blew the fuel pump out, removed the carburetor, pulled the bowl, cleaned everything, drained the engine oil and replaced the filter, drained the rear end oil and refilled it. Pulled the spark plug, turned the engine over and installed a new plug. Pulled the starter generator off, removed the brushes, blew everything out, resurfaced the brushes a little with emory cloth, cleaned all the contact areas, made sure the bearings were free, the brushes moved freely and put it back together and installed a new solenoid. Didn't check the battery, just installed a good one out of my lawn mower in it.
I hit the gas pedal and it started right up, drove it around for about 15 minutes up and down the road, stopping and going every few minutes. Stopped one time and it wouldn't turn over anymore. Starter/generator was hot enough to sizzle water. Any ideas?

[sccowboy]

When you took it apart, did you place the wires back in the correct positions? Is it possible that the DF terminal (green wire) is not making a connection back to the regulator? That wire is responsible for telling the generator to hold back so to speak. The following is a decent test procedure for the generator:

Test Procedure 7 - Starter/Generator (Starter Function)

1. Place the neutral lock-out cam in the SERVICE position, put the forward and reverse lever in the NEUTRAL
position, and chock the wheels.

2. Check that wires are connected correctly and are tight. If they are not, rewire or tighten as necessary.

3. Disconnect the wires from all the terminals on the starter/generator. Then place the black (-) probe of a
multimeter, set to ohms (O), on the starter/generator housing (scratch through the paint to insure a
good ground). While holding the black probe against the housing, place the red (+) probe (one at a
time) on the A1, A2, F1, F2 and DF terminals respectively (Figure 12-25, Page 100). The readings
should be no continuity. If the readings are incorrect, the starter/generator will need to be removed
from the vehicle and disassembled by a qualified technician (See Removal of the Starter/Generator,
Page 107).
An incorrect reading from A1 or A2 terminal indicates three possible problems: 1) a grounded A1 or A2
terminal, 2) a grounded wire in the brush area, or 3) a grounded armature/commutator.
If the F1 or F2 reading is incorrect, it indicates a possible grounded F1 or F2 terminal or a grounded
field coil.
If the DF reading is incorrect, it indicates a possible grounded DF terminal or a grounded field coil.

4. Disconnect the ground wire from the A2 terminal and the green wire from the A1 terminal on the
starter/generator. Using a multimeter set to ohms (O), place the red (+) probe on the A1 terminal and
the black (-) probe on the A2 terminal. The reading should be continuity.
If the reading is incorrect, a possible open or poor contact in a brush assembly and/or open armature
windings maybe the cause. The starter/generator will need to be removed from the vehicle and disassembled
by a qualified technician (See Removal of the Starter/Generator, Page 107).

5. Disconnect the green wire from the F1 terminal and the white wire from the F2 terminal on the starter/
generator. Using a multimeter set on ohms (O), place the red (+) probe on the F1 terminal and the
black (-) probe on the F2 terminal. The reading should be continuity.
If the reading is incorrect, a possible open field coil or bad connections at terminals may be the cause.
The starter/generator will need to be removed from the vehicle and disassembled by a qualified technician

6. Disconnect the yellow wire from the DF terminal and the green wire from the F1 terminal on the starter/
generator. Using a multimeter set on ohms (O), place the red (+) probe on the DF terminal and the
black (-) probe on the F1 terminal. The reading should be between 4.5 to 5.5 ohms (O).
If the reading is incorrect, a possible grounded DF terminal and/or grounded field coil may be the
cause. The starter/generator will need to be removed from the vehicle and disassembled by a qualified
technician


Test Procedure 9 - Starter/Generator (Generator Function)

1. Place the neutral lock-out cam in the SERVICE position, put the forward and reverse lever in the NEUTRAL
position, and chock the wheels.

2. Check that wires are connected correctly and are tight. If they are not, rewire or tighten as necessary.

3. Disconnect the yellow wire from the DF terminal on the starter/generator. Cover the connector on the
yellow wire to make sure the yellow wire will not short to ground. Then, using a jumper wire, ground the
DF terminal to the A2 terminal. Using a multimeter set to Volts DC (20v range), place the red (+) probe
on the positive (+) post of the battery, and place the black (-) probe on the negative (-) post. Turn the
key switch to the ON position, and depress the accelerator to start the engine. Run the engine at full
governed speed. The reading should show voltage rising on the meter. If voltage rises, see Test Procedure
10 - Voltage Regulator. If the voltage does not rise, see Starter/Generator Repair, Pages 107-116.

4. Reconnect the yellow wire to the (DF) terminal on the starter/generator.


Test Procedure 10 - Voltage Regulator:

1. Place the neutral lock-out cam in the SERVICE position, put the forward and reverse lever in the NEUTRAL
position, and chock the wheels.

2. Check that the wires are connected correctly and are tight. If they are not, rewire or tighten as necessary.

3. Start the engine and check engine-governored RPM. The reading should be between 2670-2730 RPM.
If it is not, adjust the accelerator cable at the electrical component box (See Fuel System, Section 14).

4. With the battery in good condition and fully charged, and with proper ventilation, run the engine for several
minutes to bring the voltage regulator to operating temperature, then release the accelerator pedal
to stop the engine. Using a multimeter set to DC volt (DCV), place the red (+) probe on the large post of
the solenoid with the red wire from the voltage regulator attached. Place the black (-) probe on the negative
(-) post of battery. Depress the accelerator to start the engine, and run it at full governed speed. If
the reading is between 14.7 and 15.3 volts, the regulator is good. If the reading is lower than 14.7 volts
but rising steadily, check battery condition (See Hydrometer Test, Page 12. If the reading is lower
than 14.7 volts and not rising, and the starter/generator is good; or if the reading is over 15.3 volts and
continues to rise, replace voltage regulator

[Swarty73]

Wires are back in the correct positions. Didn't check if the green wire is making a connection back to the regulator, just hooked it up to the starter/generator.

"The readings should be no continuity. If the readings are incorrect, the starter/generator will need to be removed."

- if it's set to Ohms, what reading will it be if there is no continuity?
- what tells me the readings are correct or incorrect?
- my multimeter has a continuity mode, would that be easier than setting it to Ohms?

Awesome information, thanks a lot!

[sccowboy]

when its set to ohms and you touch the leads together you get a reading. No continuity should show no reading. In other words, what you are looking for is that the field coils etc are not grounding out to the case.

[Swarty73]

Test procedure 7: Everything was fine.
Test procedure 9: Voltage slowly declined.
Test procedure 10: Reading around 11 volts and not rising, checked again and it was 10.6 volts.

After running it, the battery was low and needed recharged. Went and got a new voltage regulator, battery is charging now. We'll see what happens.

[sccowboy]

Sounds like you're on the right track.

[Swarty73]

Installed new voltage regulator, new solenoid, good battery. Drove it around, same thing happens. Battery discharges and starter/generator gets hot. I guess the only thing it could be is the starter/generator. Nothing else to fix right?

[sccowboy]

It does sound like the generator. After installing all the new stuff did you go back through the tests again? Its a pain but it may help to isolate the issue.

[Swarty73]

No, I figured I would take the starter to a starter/alternator shop and have them test it. That's got to be it.
Once that's fixed, I'm ordering a jakes long travel kit, rims and tires, back seat kit and painting the body.

[sccowboy]

ok good deal... put up some pics when you can..