How to install a "kill switch" to avoid cart theft

[scottyb]

We ended up getting a bike lock for one cart. You know the plastic coated cable type with a 4 digit combo. It hangs on the back of the seat support and easy to use anytime it's needed. It won't rattle or scratch anything up. Loop it from the steering wheel to the seat support. When locked it's even in the way of sitting in the cart.
Cheap, easy to use, effective. Like a barking dog - it makes thieves go to the next cart.

[michaelmc29]

Thanks for all the responses fellas! It looks like either way I will have to remove the front cowl to be able to properly wire the switch (aka solder, etc.). I'd rather not have the connections taped together haha

I will report back and try to post some pics when I'm done so others can get some ideas!

[cart around]

Follow the big positive battery terminal to your solenoid. Is there another small wire on the same terminal? If so, that should be the hot wire that goes to your key switch. Put an inline switch under the seat.

[michaelmc29]

Well, I wired it in line with the constant hot going to the switch... That's not the answer. All that does is toggle my lights on and off when I have the key turned all the way to the "lights" position... Looks like I'll have to pull the front cowl and wire it in line with the wire that is hot with the key on like Gearhead said? Can anyone else shed light on what I might be missing?

[michaelmc29]

Sorry Cart Around, didn't see your post until the page refreshed. Yes there is a smile wire on the same terminal. I think that's the route to go. Only problem now is the **** wire pulled out of the crappy old in-line fuse, so there's another thing to fix!

[Gearhead1956]

Originally Posted by michaelmc29

Well, I wired it in line with the constant hot going to the switch... That's not the answer. All that does is toggle my lights on and off when I have the key turned all the way to the "lights" position... Looks like I'll have to pull the front cowl and wire it in line with the wire that is hot with the key on like Gearhead said? Can anyone else shed light on what I might be missing?

Sorry,
Guess I should have ask more questions. My EZ has a separate head light switch.

Do you have two constant hot wires to switch? Thinking maybe so.
One for starting and one for lights.

If you only have one, and you brake the connection that should work.
If two, you just got the wrong one.

It maybe easier to go under the seat and do something.
On my EZ there is a fuse the operates every thing but the lights. One could very easily tie a switch it there.

[michaelmc29]

Yea Gearhead, that was probably my fault for not giving all the facts. I can't get a test light on all wires on the key switch without some serious cussing, but I'm guess thing are two constant hots going to it. I think Cart Around has a good solution for still being able to mount it under the seat. Now that I pulled the wire out of the in-line fuse, coming off the solenoid, the cart won't run! Mission accomplished!

I'll pick up a new fuse tomorrow and hopefully have this seemingly minor project finished... On beer #4 of the project, might just stop the project and see what I can get the count to

[Gearhead1956]

[michaelmc29]

Does anyone know what amp fuse I need to use for the wire going from the solenoid to the key switch?

[cart around]

This manual says 7 amps.

Middle pdf. http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/ezgo-...chematics.html

It should be stamped on the base of the fuse.

This 2002 manual says 15 amps. http://products.jacobsen.com/img/man...681-g01-gb.pdf page 23