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Old 02-07-2018, 04:30 PM   #1
paledarker
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Default Dead Club Car Electric

2002 Club Car -- Depressing the throttle produces nothing but a click of the solenoid. Batteries are less than 6 mo. and fully charged (48V). At the advice of a few "experts" we have a new MCOR, new brushes in the motor, a new solenoid, a new speed sensor and a rebuilt Curtis controller. The latest expert tells me that the charge side of the onboard computer is working, but that there is a "run" side to the computer also and that must be failed and causing the cart to not run. The computer number is 101909902. My question is there in fact a "run" side to the computer, if so is the computer testable to determine it's condition?

Thanking you in advance,
paledarker
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Old 02-07-2018, 04:35 PM   #2
Mooncarter
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Default Re: Dead Club Car Electric

I'm not a pro with obc's. Somebody will be along to help you.
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Old 02-07-2018, 05:47 PM   #3
scottyb
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Default Re: Dead Club Car Electric

The OBC controls the neg side of the solenoid activation circuit. This is a safety feature so it can disable the cart while the charger is on. You can bypass this function by supplying a 48v - wire from the battery pack to the solenoid small post with the negative wire. If that is the issue the cart should run.
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Old 02-07-2018, 05:52 PM   #4
mrgolf
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Default Re: Dead Club Car Electric

Quote:
Originally Posted by scottyb View Post
The OBC controls the neg side of the solenoid activation circuit. This is a safety feature so it can disable the cart while the charger is on. You can bypass this function by supplying a 48v - wire from the battery pack to the solenoid small post with the negative wire. If that is the issue the cart should run.
This is what I was thinking, but he said the solenoid clicked.
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Old 02-07-2018, 06:20 PM   #5
Sergio
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Default Re: Dead Club Car Electric

He has a speed sensor so no OBC negative side control.

Post your serial number in case it does not start with AQ.

Assuming you have an IQ cart:

If the OBC is in lockout mode, the reverse buzzer and the walk-away brake would not work either so that is pretty easy for you to verify.

Also, make sure what you hear is the solenoid and not just the MCOR micro-switch closing.
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Old 02-07-2018, 06:28 PM   #6
Muddog
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Default Re: Dead Club Car Electric

After replacing everything but cables, wiring harness and F/R switch.
I would look at F/R switch. Make sure contacts are clean and tight.
How to test is on page 11-14.
http://blockbustergolfcarts.com/Down...olf%20Cart.pdf

Never mind, I was thinking DS

Last edited by Muddog; 02-07-2018 at 06:30 PM.. Reason: Wrong cart
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Old 02-07-2018, 06:52 PM   #7
Swan
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Default Re: Dead Club Car Electric

Quote:
Originally Posted by mrgolf View Post
but he said the solenoid clicked.
my solenoid was toast and it still clicked , so clicking doesnt really tell thats its good
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Old 02-07-2018, 08:34 PM   #8
WalterM6
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Default Re: Dead Club Car Electric

If it was my cart I would start at the motor. Make sure you have continuity between A1 & A2. And F1 & F2. And no continuity to the chassis. If they check OK search on the site for how to test the motor using 2 batteries. Some of this might change since we haven't determined if it's a series or sepex.
Edit: You need to remove the wires from the motor to check continuity. Also disconnect the battery.
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Old 02-07-2018, 09:09 PM   #9
paledarker
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Default Re: Dead Club Car Electric

The last "expert" ($55/hr) checked motor continuity/no continuity and pronounced it good. The solenoid is brand new and is definitely clicking. I will post serial number tomorrow.
Thanks for all your inputs. May solve this yet.

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