crank & rods

spled77 · 02-06-2011, 10:49 AM

I have a new OEM crank & OEM rods 295 do thay have to be sized ? Or are thay ready to use?

BLUE72CAMARO · 02-07-2011, 10:37 AM

I would sure hope they are sized for the price they get for these things. only way to tell is to measure them and see what your clearances are.

rokcrlr · 02-07-2011, 06:30 PM

get some plastigage and check them before you install,just to be safe.

spled77 · 02-07-2011, 07:05 PM

I think I will Do that to this crank and rods was hoping new was bolt and go not like using used parts. Put one Rod on crank and could not turn the Crank by hand. First new crankshaft have used used ones before with no problems and after market rods

ez go go · 02-07-2011, 08:13 PM

Be particular to torque specs. as the aluminum will easily deform under too much. I think its 13 lbs on final torque. You may have to lap them into the crank.

csason · 02-07-2011, 09:00 PM

I have never lapped mine, they come ready to assemble..
The book rarely calls for assembly lube, but I did on mine, I use chainsaw
chain lube as it sticks real good.

The crankshafts are hardened I was able to clean about a 1/16'' of
old rod off mine and the crank was near perfect.. emery cloth is great, along
with elbow grease..

Also, I spun my engine slowly and then pretty rapid with oil in the case ready to
fire (assembled) using the starter and no plugs, so the whole crankshaft would be free of cavities of air before I started it. It also gets oil up into the top of the motor before you start it.

I just did exactly what the book says and it works perfect.

ez go go · 02-07-2011, 09:17 PM

I'm simply saying that if the rods are too tight on the crank under final torque you could have some serious issues and ruin a brand new crank. Seen it!! However, I agree with assembly lube so the crank and rods do not dry start. It is a good practice. In addition to a full crankcase of oil, you should also prime your oil pump before spinning to fill all the feeder ports that lube the lower end. You can feed it into the port on the head while you rotate the engine letting it displace air.

csason · 02-08-2011, 12:47 AM

Yep..over torque them the aluminum heats up and the
Steel won't give...oops.

BLUE72CAMARO · 02-08-2011, 10:36 AM

I gave every contact surface a good coat of assembly lube while I was putting together my new motor. I have never heard of problems from having things to lubed up at start up! I also plan to pull the plugs and spin the motor over quite a bit to get oil everywhere before starting it.

csason · 02-08-2011, 01:08 PM

Just thought I would mention, when you put the rod caps on using the marks in the right place, then torqued properly, they will still be free on the crank. Torquing them properly will not "tighten" them up on the crank.
I had a buddy of mine freaking out because he thought it was supposed to be no play at all..

02-06-2011, 10:49 AM	#1
spled77 Not Yet Wild Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: South Western Pa. Posts: 15	crank & rods I have a new OEM crank & OEM rods 295 do thay have to be sized ? Or are thay ready to use?

02-07-2011, 10:37 AM	#2
BLUE72CAMARO Gone Wild Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Illinois Posts: 171	Re: crank & rods I would sure hope they are sized for the price they get for these things. only way to tell is to measure them and see what your clearances are.

02-07-2011, 06:30 PM	#3
rokcrlr Gone Wild Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Decatur,IL Posts: 553	Re: crank & rods get some plastigage and check them before you install,just to be safe.

02-07-2011, 07:05 PM	#4
spled77 Not Yet Wild Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: South Western Pa. Posts: 15	Re: crank & rods I think I will Do that to this crank and rods was hoping new was bolt and go not like using used parts. Put one Rod on crank and could not turn the Crank by hand. First new crankshaft have used used ones before with no problems and after market rods

02-07-2011, 08:13 PM	#5
ez go go Doin' the Wild Thang Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Greenville, AL Posts: 1,063	Re: crank & rods Be particular to torque specs. as the aluminum will easily deform under too much. I think its 13 lbs on final torque. You may have to lap them into the crank.

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02-07-2011, 09:00 PM	#6
csason Love my Big Block Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Florida Posts: 1,553	Re: crank & rods I have never lapped mine, they come ready to assemble.. The book rarely calls for assembly lube, but I did on mine, I use chainsaw chain lube as it sticks real good. The crankshafts are hardened I was able to clean about a 1/16'' of old rod off mine and the crank was near perfect.. emery cloth is great, along with elbow grease.. Also, I spun my engine slowly and then pretty rapid with oil in the case ready to fire (assembled) using the starter and no plugs, so the whole crankshaft would be free of cavities of air before I started it. It also gets oil up into the top of the motor before you start it. I just did exactly what the book says and it works perfect.

02-07-2011, 09:17 PM	#7
ez go go Doin' the Wild Thang Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Greenville, AL Posts: 1,063	Re: crank & rods I'm simply saying that if the rods are too tight on the crank under final torque you could have some serious issues and ruin a brand new crank. Seen it!! However, I agree with assembly lube so the crank and rods do not dry start. It is a good practice. In addition to a full crankcase of oil, you should also prime your oil pump before spinning to fill all the feeder ports that lube the lower end. You can feed it into the port on the head while you rotate the engine letting it displace air.

02-08-2011, 12:47 AM	#8
csason Love my Big Block Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Florida Posts: 1,553	Re: crank & rods Yep..over torque them the aluminum heats up and the Steel won't give...oops.

02-08-2011, 10:36 AM	#9
BLUE72CAMARO Gone Wild Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Illinois Posts: 171	Re: crank & rods I gave every contact surface a good coat of assembly lube while I was putting together my new motor. I have never heard of problems from having things to lubed up at start up! I also plan to pull the plugs and spin the motor over quite a bit to get oil everywhere before starting it.

02-08-2011, 01:08 PM	#10
csason Love my Big Block Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Florida Posts: 1,553	Re: crank & rods Just thought I would mention, when you put the rod caps on using the marks in the right place, then torqued properly, they will still be free on the crank. Torquing them properly will not "tighten" them up on the crank. I had a buddy of mine freaking out because he thought it was supposed to be no play at all..

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