295 Robin, No Spark, New Twist

[Tommybh]

Something I just found a few days ago on mine cart runs fine besides smell of gassy exhaust and some smoke other than that is drives and starts fine but my coil ohms where 0 and no continuity / beep sound from the meter .. indicating a bad coil ordered a replacement coil aftermarket and the ohms between the two spark plug wires where 0 and no continuity so brand new tested bad but cart seem to run fine but the issues of rich and exhaust smoke which I’m hoping this is the issue I have a second replacement on the way and I had them test this coil before being sent and they said it had continuity and omhed out good .. so I would find the test for your coil in the manual and see if it tests out fine .. I know you said it worked in other cart but mine seems to work okay but tests bad

[sthreatt]

Originally Posted by Tommybh

Something I just found a few days ago on mine cart runs fine besides smell of gassy exhaust and some smoke other than that is drives and starts fine but my coil ohms where 0 and no continuity / beep sound from the meter .. indicating a bad coil ordered a replacement coil aftermarket and the ohms between the two spark plug wires where 0 and no continuity so brand new tested bad but cart seem to run fine but the issues of rich and exhaust smoke which I’m hoping this is the issue I have a second replacement on the way and I had them test this coil before being sent and they said it had continuity and omhed out good .. so I would find the test for your coil in the manual and see if it tests out fine .. I know you said it worked in other cart but mine seems to work okay but tests bad

Ignition coil and wires check out perfect. No problem there. It will spark like a lightning storm whenever the pulsar coil is triggered. Problem is with pulsar reading the flywheel hub.

[sthreatt]

GLORY BE ! It's RUNNING ! As a last resort I took off the EzGo OEM high dollar ignitor. Took off the entire wiring harness that had run from the ignitor to the ignition coil and pulser coil. Went to Oreilly's Parts and picked up an ignition module for a 1977 Chevy Nova 4.1 inline 6 cylinder, GM Delco. Built a new custom harness to accomodate it, sanded the frame beside the coil down to bare metal, mounted the chevy module with thermal paste to the frame, applied the new harness per the instructions and wiring schematic found in the "HEI Mod" thread on this forum, hit the pedal and the plugs are firing like a machine gun. Put it all back together and didn't ride but about 100 ft and it died. Scared me, but no big problem. It was a gas issue. It's been sitting about 3 years and fuel pump wasn't pumping. I THINK the diaphragm and check valve flaps had dried out. Didn't have one on hand, but put a lawn mower fuel pump on it and it's running great now. After a MONTH of changing parts, 3 different ignitors, cleaning grounds until they shined like stainless steel, and pulling my hair out, If I were still a drinking man I'd have poured me a tall Crown Royal ! SO GLAD to get that thing running and gone. Thanks to all for your patience, input, and bearing with me through this nightmare ! HEI on a 295 Robin DOES work. Starts quick, runs good, no issues after a few miles running. It's running with the above mentioned module, OEM pulsar coil, and OEM ignition coil. When I first cranked it up, it wouldn't throttle up. Had to switch the wires on the pulsar to opposite the diagram, then it throttled up like it should.

[sthreatt]

GM HEI module mounted on frame rail next to ignition coil. Had to pull the carb and clean it. It was gummed up with old stale gas and the needle seat was sticking, but it's cranking and running sweet. Practically no need for choke, not cold natured at all. Smooth and fast, pulls strong. It's a rough looking old cart and decked out for hunting, running to the deer stand. Has a home made lift kit and steers like a runaway wagon. Goes where it wants to and definitely NOT suitable for the road, but the owner likes it. If it was mine I'd strip it down and dress it up. Runs too good to be bouncin through the plum thicket.

[trig123]

Originally Posted by sthreatt

GM HEI module mounted on frame rail next to ignition coil. Had to pull the carb and clean it. It was gummed up with old stale gas and the needle seat was sticking, but it's cranking and running sweet. Practically no need for choke, not cold natured at all. Smooth and fast, pulls strong. It's a rough looking old cart and decked out for hunting, running to the deer stand. Has a home made lift kit and steers like a runaway wagon. Goes where it wants to and definitely NOT suitable for the road, but the owner likes it. If it was mine I'd strip it down and dress it up. Runs too good to be bouncin through the plum thicket.

You are not the first one who has done this on these 4-strokes. The problem I read is they don't last. I wish you luck because most had to resort back to how it was setup from the factory.

I have never had issues like many post here on getting one of these robbins to fire but I still have extra OEM parts.

The only problem we all face now is a shortage of OEM parts . Many dealers are even selling aftermarket junk.

The OEM ignitor you bought might have been one of these. Take a picture of it and upload it here so we can look at the one you bought from the dealer.

Maybe your HEI will hold up. Only time will tell.

[sthreatt]

Originally Posted by trig123

Many dealers are even selling aftermarket junk.

The OEM ignitor you bought might have been one of these. Take a picture of it and upload it here so we can look at the one you bought from the dealer.

Supposedly OEM Ignitor and packaging it came in with part #.

[sthreatt]

Dealers image and description.

[trig123]

It looks like the OEM. These things are over $200. I test them on one of my carts. Hold on to it because I think its good. +

I have tested several for members here and on another golf cart forum so they wouldn't keep buying parts.


I think you had wiring problems . I also keep a wiring harness for testing purpose.

[sthreatt]

That OEM was the 3rd that I bought for that cart. The first two came from eBay @ about $28 each. I think both of them were crap. The OEM was the first of the three to give me any semblance of spark, but only one spark. As I raised the pulsar higher off the flywheel, up to as high as it would go in the screw mounts, that one spark improved to two or three sparks. The first two from eBay were identical, plain, unmarked except "Made in China". The OEM was made in Japan. I don't have a clue what the problem was but I almost had an orgasm when I saw the rash of fire from the HEI. It says Warranted for 1 Year, so if it quits Oreillys will hand me another. Obviously it's a 5 minute switch where it's mounted. I went the extra mile to manage any generated heat, and being the eternal optimist, I think it's gonna work. I won't let myself think otherwise. ( fingers crossed )

[sthreatt]

I ground the frame clean, ground off the two small plastic pins from the module so it could sit flat on that tubular steel frame, and applied dielectric paste well in hopes that it will dissipate heat well. HOPEFULLY that will give me longevity. I'm plum tickled with the way its performing so far.