01-25-2012, 10:41 AM | #21 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: mid GA
Posts: 33
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Re: Boogered wiring
That's probably what needs to be done. If anybody knows how, I'd appreciate it!
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01-25-2012, 10:59 AM | #22 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 359
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Re: Boogered wiring
In the black box as you have doubtless observed, the cable operates a cam which in turn, activates two micro switches. These are your engine start and kill switches. You need to set the cable so that they operate at about 1" of throttle pedal travel as measured from the top of the pedal. This allows the brake to release just before the switches activate and the engine starts. Connecting the rear axle to the carb is another cable. This cable operates the throttle via a governor linkage and I suspect that this is where your problem lies. If THIS cable is out of adjustment (I'm assuming the first one is correctly set here) it will open the throttle butterfly so far before the engine engages that in essence, it would be like throwing a car into gear with the gas pedal half way down, hence your jerky start and lack of low speed control. With the first cable to the black box correctly set you will need to adjust the second cable to be just getting tension as the brake releases and the micros are activated. This allows the smooth start and low speed control you are looking for. It takes a bit of back and forth adjusting to get it just right so be patient and go a little at a time until you get everything synchronized to where you are happy.
FC. |
01-25-2012, 11:09 AM | #23 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: mid GA
Posts: 33
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Re: Boogered wiring
Yes Fastercarter, what you describe is my problem. I'll look into that. I don't remember there being any adjustment on the cable from the carb to the lever on the trans/rear, but I may be mistaken. The top micro switch tab rests maybe 3/8ths" over the point on the cam when no pedal is applied. Once the pedal is moved 2-3" (guess) the switch tab is over the point on the cam and the starter activates.
With the ignition off and working the pedal back and forth, the lever on top of the trans starts to move after the switch tab has gone over the high point on the cam. Then the cable to the carb moves. All this is from weekend memory, so I may be off a little. So it the lever that the cables are hooked to on the trans, is it a brake? |
01-25-2012, 11:36 AM | #24 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 359
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Re: Boogered wiring
http://imageshack.us/f/60/c8govcablesdq5.jpg/ Here's a schematic. Not very good I'm afraid but it gives you and idea of the layout.
You mentioned 2-3" of pedal travel before the switches activate. That's waaay to much. The throttle is likely to be at least half open. That's not a brake mechanism on the axle, it's a counterweight operated governor. It pulls back on the throttle when the axle is spinning faster than CC want you to go. Many of us have eliminated that and run with tachometers to keep things from exploding. Here's another link to that which might also give you some helpful pointers as to your adjustment issues. http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/gas-c...-club-car.html FC. |
01-25-2012, 01:17 PM | #25 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: mid GA
Posts: 33
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Re: Boogered wiring
FC, I wondering if my governor is working at all. Should there be any resistance at all when at rest? It almost feels like the shaft is just turning with nothing on the other end inside. When I mash the pedal down it keeps getting faster, although I don't hold it long. I know the rev limiter is bypassed. I found the brown wire is cut and the 2 black wires are wired to a white with black stripe wire which runs to the starter/generator.
The lever on the bottom of the black box has 2 holes. Is it suppose to? If not which hole should the rod be hooked to, nearest the end or the center? Is the pedal rod suppose to have a 45* bend near the box? I read the sticky about speeding up. I need to slow down. My setup is like the diagram in the picture you posted the link to. Is there any info on how the rod, cables and governor arm should be adjusted? I know my pedal rod is all the way out with the bend. |
01-25-2012, 05:28 PM | #26 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 359
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Re: Boogered wiring
What lever do you mean ? I don't see anything with two holes on this parts diagram. Part 6 I believe you mean ? The second link shows the accelerator rod and its adjuster as well as where the cable comes through.
http://imageshack.us/f/510/electricalboxio2.jpg/ Or this one http://imageshack.us/f/234/c8electricalboxgasby1.jpg/ Regarding the governor on the axle; is the arm fully clamped to the protruding pin ? Lots of times folks will loosen them so the pin still turns but the arm that rides on it won't be affected by the action of the governor. The pin itself has very little movement rotationally until the axle is running at higher speeds. We'll get you there in the end mate. FC. |
01-26-2012, 07:17 AM | #27 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: mid GA
Posts: 33
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Re: Boogered wiring
Yes, it's part #6. Mine has 2 holes. Looking at the diagram, mine has another hole closer to the center. And the holes overlap each other slightly, so I'm thinking PO did this for speed?
I'll check the tightness of the governor clamp. So, the cable should have many threads inside the black box and the clamp should be tight on the governor arm. What about the rod from the pedal to the box? How should it be adjusted on each end, short, long or medium? Where should the governor pin be in the arm when tight? Is there any adjustment on the cable from the governor arm to the carb? Should the bracket that holds the end of the cable from the box to the governor arm have an angle to it pointing to about the center of the fwd/rev post on the rans? I wish I had a stock cart to compare to. Or even pictures of each area concerned. I work on all my stuff and always do pretty good on trucks, tractors, backhoes, 4-wheelers, etc. But, I'm an idiot when it comes to these carts with all the safety switches and cables. Thanks for all the help! |
01-26-2012, 12:51 PM | #28 | |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 359
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Re: Boogered wiring
Quote:
First off. the throttle lever,#6 or #8 depending on which diagram I posted. The connecting pin needs to be to be to the outer side of the lever. If it's moved inwards you will have a trigger like action. Fine for drag racing but not much help for fine speed control. Loosen the locknut and slip off the retaining collar and ball connector. this should allow the black box cam to revolve to its off position. Adjust the thread length to match ball and socket and put it back on. At this setting the cam should not be activating the micros. Now adjust the cable to give the (approx) 1" pedal movement before the micros activate. At the rear end you will see that the cable has two springs that are interconnected. If these are zip tied together, cut off the ties. The springs control the throttle plate via the governor. Next I would loosen the governor arm/throttle cable connector and re-tighten as it rests with just a tiny bit of slack in the cable. That should bring the two systems into a close to neutral situation. One final thing, remove the air intake hose from the carb and make sure that the throttle butterfly plate is still there and operating properly. I've never seen it but others have posted that sometimes the plate comes off and gets ingested into the motor. This gives instant full throttle with no control. FC. |
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01-26-2012, 01:11 PM | #29 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: mid GA
Posts: 33
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Re: Boogered wiring
FC, I'm printing this off for this weekend (maybe). I really appreciate the help. Are you anywhere near middle GA? :)
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01-26-2012, 02:37 PM | #30 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 359
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Re: Boogered wiring
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