HOT Engine

[85.G3]

I don't know what the hole is but ........... "The only thing I have found that I'm questioning (noticed while cleaning carb) is that there is a hole on the top left side of the carb that is open to the bowl. It must be doing something because if I plug it my engine stalls out .......... If plugging it makes the engine stall I would guess it is an air leak that should not be there. Is the hole threaded? My carb has a idle jet with a straight slot and spring on that side of the carb but in a different location

[tjstahly]

Hi there CK Im 99% positive thats your bowl vent. And yes it would die if you plugged it up because it wouldn't allow the fuel to be drawn out of the bowl,kind of like putting your tongue over a straw in a glass of soda. I am very curious about your running hot situation as I kind of have the same thing.I rebuilt a G2 last season and have been disappointed with the results. My cart also seems sluggish going up hills. It was fine at first but has gotten progressively worse and seems to get really hot fast.Please keep us posted on your discoveries....Tom

[ckraker]

I'm amazed that the bowel vent is just open like that, cant dirt get in there? I erik let you know if I find anything, but I'm losing hope and thinking about digging a golf cart sized hole in my back yard. Anybody have any success stories of fixing
a hot engine?

[sho305]

No pun intended, but yes I put a clone in my cart. The engine was less than half what the dealer quoted me for a rebuilt and he had a reasonable price (600 long block swap, fully rebuilt with new bore/piston and warranty). Though I might have that much into it now including new secondary and performance parts, custom made exhaust, ported and cut head, etc. I have a couple grand in my free labor and fabrication lol.

I can tell you from experience with many engines this can happen if you don't bore it and oversize piston. When the rings leak from a worn bore (like even new rings will when you don't bore it) it heats up the cylinder, that causes it to grow and leak more. The only way to get like new running is a new bore.

Is your exhaust plugged up somehow? I'd try running it without the muffler or muffler partly loose and see how it runs. Don't heat up the seat or something.

[1989Marathon]

Did you ever see this motor run cool? Did it just start running hot? What's the history of the motor.

[ckraker]

Originally Posted by 1989Marathon

Did you ever see this motor run cool? Did it just start running hot? What's the history of the motor.

I don't know much about the history-- My buddy just bought it from a golf course. He put bigger tires on and installed the torque spring with a new sheave. I don't know if it got hot before the torque spring/tire swap because he never really ran it that way. It seems like the RPM's might be low as well, especially if you are going up a hill-- it seems to bog the engine.

[rib33024]

I think in one of your post you said, the fins on the head was clean??,, did you remove the plastic shrouds on the motor and make sure the fins were clean, it does have the plastic shrouds on the motor right

[ckraker]

Yes sir, plastic is on. Find are clean, good air flow too. Can someone take a temp reading of their valve cover when up to operating temp? Mine is about 220 f

[rib33024]

Originally Posted by ckraker

Yes sir, plastic is on. Find are clean, good air flow too. Can someone take a temp reading of their valve cover when up to operating temp? Mine is about 220 f

It's good that you have them on the motor , but did you ever remove them and check to see that all the fins are clean??, because i removed them once from a motor i had and the fins under the plastic covers were packed full of mud and grass, and when i cleaned all the mud out of the fins and reinstalled the shrouds the motor ran cool again

[DOOmsman]

220 is not that hot, if you are boging down you are working the engine.