Keeps blowing Fuse

[Yzshooter]

Hi all,
Just picked up a G11 and know nothing of it's history. I checked the oil and thought Id go for a ride to warm it up and change the oil. Upon returning home I stopped in my driveway and it would not re-start. Quick web search directed me to the 10 amp fuse. It was blown. I replaced it with a new 10 amp and as soon as you touch the pedal you hear it blow. I thought I ask where to start first. I'm not one to throw parts at something. I did discover that the box or cover is missing that exposes all the wiring and solenoid.
Sorry if this has been discussed before. I've searched and can't seem to locate. If it has been discussed I'd be grateful for that link.

Thanks, Al

[jclark138]

Check out the links at the bottom of the page of your post -
Maybe one of these will help -

[Mooncarter]

Look for a naked wire.

[jclark138]

Agreed. Someplace there’s a dead-short after the start switch.

[Lochlin]

Blown fuses are the worst. I don't know G11s at all but I follow this process on on machines:

If you don't yet have a wiring diagram, get one. Locate the fuse on the diagram and work from there, checking every wire from the fuse to wherever it goes. Looks for fraying, burn marks, anything that looks amiss should be replaced. Understand that the short could well be something not visible, unfortunately. It could be internal to a switch or something so you have to troubleshoot some of that stuff if you can't find any wiring issues.

[Yzshooter]

EDIT: My cart is a 2000 G16A. I found the serial number. I was using the number on the engine and thought it was a G11. I did look briefly while on my lunch break and didn't see any wires that might be naked or grounding. I moved them around and tried another fuse and it blew it as soon as I touched the pedal. I'll have to look closer this evening when I have more time. I also will check the wiring for the lights and make sure they are not grounded to the frame. I already learned through this forum that Yamaha grounds everything back to the neg side of the battery.

Thanks for the replies.
Al

[cgtech]

Buy a automatically resetting circuit breaker (10a) from the auto parts store. It will save you so much time during diagnosis. They will plug right into the fuse holder. It works like this, "fault happens, circuit breaker turns off immediately, circuit breaker turns back on in about 10 seconds". No "whole box of fuses" needed. Any time I deal with this, it's usually either the starter/generator, or the voltage regulator, and I leave the circuit breaker in there when I'm done.

Here's an example.. I know the price is crap, but I didn't search long, just for an example... You can probably get it for cheaper than the next box of fuses you are gonna blow unplugging-trying-replugging everything.

[Yzshooter]

Update. I unplugged the black wire from the starter selinoid and the fuse doesn’t blow. I also have 12v on the black wire when press the pedal. (When hooked up) Is that normal? 12 v on the red I understand but isn’t the black a ground?

Tia, Al





cgtech, thanks for the response and great idea. Unfortunately I am not near a parts house and I have about 25 used 10 fuses pulled from junk cars. ��

[jclark138]

Originally Posted by cgtech

Buy a automatically resetting circuit breaker (10a) from the auto parts store. . . . .

cgtech - Great idea. I’m an hour drive each way from an auto parts place, but I’d likely have to go there for fuses any ways. Next trip will include a circuit breaker or two - thanks!

[Yzshooter]

I also have 12v on the black wire when press the pedal. (When hooked up) Is that normal? 12 v on the red I understand but isn’t the black a ground?

After talking to someone with more experience than myself, I discovered that this black wire should have 12v on it when the solenoid is activated. I also discovered that if i put a 15 amp fuse in it does not blow but the relay just clicks but the solenoid doesn't engage. I jumped across the large post on the solenoid and the cart starts. The solenoid appears to be an automotive type so I feel that is the problem. I plan to get the correct solenoid today but have another question:

There is a black wire (assuming ground) that is attached to the solenoid mounting screw. Is this correct? It seems like that wire on this "automotive type solenoid'' mounting screw causes that ground wire to be connected to the frame. That seems to contradict what I read about Yamaha's grounding practices.

TIA....Al