Help with Curtis controller model 1205M-5601

[UncleJerm76]

Hi all, I need some help with an aftermarket Curtis controller model 1205M-5601.

LITTLE HISTORY:
I have someone who asked me for help who bought the above controller for his 36v cart, but it came pre-programmed for a 48v cart. It runs fine for a mile or two until the cart voltage drops below the controller’s 48v cutoff. Then the controller turns off and the cart just stops until he recharges again. A call to the vendor and they said he just needs to plug in a handheld Curtis programmer and change a setting to 36v.

We called all our local shops for help and a Club Car dealer was happy to assist. However the dealer couldn’t get their handheld programmer to power up after plugging it into the controller? We tried with the key on/off and in F/N/R to no avail. Dealer admitted it had been a few months since it was used (and it was extremely beat up) but he insisted it was a working programmer. He dropped it twice from about 5ft while we were there, and was mucking with the pins complaining one of them looked bent.

THOUGHTS:
So we drove the cart back onto the trailer and left the dealer questioning whether or not their handheld programmer even worked, or if it is an issue with the controller itself. Controller has a 4-pin Molex plug on it …I guess that’s standard Curtis these days. Can I test any of the pins myself to make sure it’s got enough juice to power up a handheld programmer? What other due diligence can I perform to make sure the issue isn’t on our end? I hate these programmable controllers. Love my simple FSIP with three adjustment knobs LOL

[tag50]

Have looked at the 1205 manual?

http://fsip.biz/Documents/1204_05.pdf


.

[UncleJerm76]

Originally Posted by tag50

Have looked at the 1205 manual?

http://fsip.biz/Documents/1204_05.pdf


.

Thanks. Maybe I'm overlooking it, but I don't see where it references the 4-pin Molex connector you plug the programmer into? That is what I need to test to make sure it is outputting voltage to power up the programmer.

[mjroman20]

Originally Posted by UncleJerm76

Thanks. Maybe I'm overlooking it, but I don't see where it references the 4-pin Molex connector you plug the programmer into? That is what I need to test to make sure it is outputting voltage to power up the programmer.

Handset pinout is as follows:
1: RX
2: GND
3: TX
4: 15V

If you are missing the 15V it may be why the handset isn't coming on. The 1205's have two parameter sets with associated cutback voltages. 48V operation typically cuts back at 37~38V and the 36V operation at around 28. This is only a reduced output not a shutdown, it may have another 3~5v before that happens. At least 15V is enough to keep the control powered and communicating. If you are able to see the voltage on the battery bank when the issue occurs it can hint at which mode its set to.

[UncleJerm76]

Originally Posted by mjroman20

Handset pinout is as follows:
1: RX
2: GND
3: TX
4: 15V

If you are missing the 15V it may be why the handset isn't coming on. The 1205's have two parameter sets with associated cutback voltages. 48V operation typically cuts back at 37~38V and the 36V operation at around 28. This is only a reduced output not a shutdown, it may have another 3~5v before that happens. At least 15V is enough to keep the control powered and communicating. If you are able to see the voltage on the battery bank when the issue occurs it can hint at which mode its set to.

Thank you! Ill check the pin outs to make sure they are getting power. I just want to make sure its outputting enough to turn the handheld on.

Its definitely set to 48v when it should be 36v. Can run about 30min until it shuts down. If you let it rest a few minutes (battery building back up a little) then you can nurse it straight home. But if you have any kind of load on the way back that sucks up the power like going up a hill - forget it.

[mjroman20]

If you wouldn't mind reporting on it. If you have a newer handset (1313) could you tell me what the voltage setting shows after you change it and restart the handset? I've noticed an issue with these controls communicating with the newer handsets and am looking for a possible fix.

Essentially what has been happening is the handset will show 36v, you can change it to 48 but when you check it later it will say 36v but will actually be set as 48. It seems to be an issue with how curtis rounds the numbers of the actual data locations into a readable format. i.e a range of 0~32767 mapped to a two choice range of 36 & 48.

[UncleJerm76]

Sure will, finding someone local with a handset is tough!


...Tools ...Toys (same thing) :)

[UncleJerm76]

mjroman20, sorry I'm not able to answer your questions, my dads batteries were approaching the 10 year mark and it was time to buy some so he just switched to 48v. This fixed his issue on needing to reprogram the controller since it was already setup to run 48v.


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