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Gas EZGO Gas EZGO Marathon, Medalist, TXT and RXV. |
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#1 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 39
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![]() I am beginning my engine rebuild and I found a lot information about rebuilding the top end of the engine, but I have not been able to find information about rebuilding the bottom end. I want to replace the bearing and seals. Anyone have any links or a rebuild step by step directions?
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#2 |
Happy Carting
![]() ![]() Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Southern California
Posts: 72,527
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![]() Get the complete motor rebuild manual from shopezgo.com
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#3 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 39
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![]() Thanks for the response I got the assembly manual for the engine and ordered a complete engine rebuild kit. The engine always had a loud rattle on it, loud enough my wife would not drive it around the campsite. I told her it was a 2 stroke and what did she expect. Upon removing the cylinder head, the entire piston skirt broke off. In the bottom of engine near the crank all the pieces were rattling around. My question now is what other things I should inspect/ replace when this far into the rebuild. The original complaint was the noise and at the end of the camping season I could not get it to start (figured it was the crank seals). I have replaced, the muffler, fuel pump, carburetor, any other suggestions?
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#4 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,515
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![]() I'm sure your going to find at least 1 crank bearing shot due to debris as they are open bearings so a complete kit is your answer. Be sure to check your ring end gap in the cylinder before installing the piston/make sure the port is facing the intake when installing the piston/use blue Loctite when installing the seals be careful not to over drive them/use anaerobic sealer on the case halves/make sure to alien the pulser plate in the correct position as removed (I'm sure you marked it before you removed it) then you will be good to go. If I've missed anything someone will chime in.
![]() LOU |
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#5 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 39
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![]() The clutch side seal seemed to be the one leaking probably the bearings on that side too. The case slid really easy off the crank on that side the other side need some extra persuasion with a block of wood. The bearing on the piston rod had a lot of play in it. I have been taking pictures as I have been moving along. Removing the pulser plate how do you get the wire out of the case? Any suggestions? I really don't want to cut the wires. Yes I did mark the position with a paint pen.
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#6 |
Test before replacing
![]() Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Ohio side of the Pennsylvania border.
Posts: 3,318
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![]() They wires should be held in with a rubber grommet. Just work it out of the hole. My pulsar plate had dimples for alignment.
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#7 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,515
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![]() Your correct you may have to cut the wires I had to. I didn't like it either but I used spade connectors to reassemble them using them in opposite directions on each wire even though they are colored wires. Remember after complete build pre mix the first tank at 40:1 or 3oz per gallon then 128:1 after that or 1 oz per gallon. You may also want to order an extra NEW plug as I've found after the first tank that plug is pretty much shot.
![]() LOU |
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#8 |
Test before replacing
![]() Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Ohio side of the Pennsylvania border.
Posts: 3,318
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![]() Mine didn't have that big connector on the end. It must have been long gone.
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#9 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 39
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![]() Anyone know what the name of that part is? Or a link where to get one? I figure if I am this far into the motor I should replace that too.
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#10 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,515
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![]() Pulsar {mounted to the pulsar plate}pretty pricey. If it was running before I would use it but it's your $$$$$
![]() ![]() ![]() LOU |
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