(0 Marathon conversion

[crackers450]

Hi All,
Need some help the resister conversion has been going for the last 2 years with no problem, 2 weeks ago the cart stooped for some reason and the accelerator peddle was jammed in the straight up position and wouldn't move, messed around with the peddle and got it going, this week the cart just stopped for some reason and would only go if you jumped up and down on the go peddle, but only very slowly and kept cutting out, what could the problem be I'm not really sure where I should start to check the problem ?

Cheers
Laurie

is this the conversion ?



if so take off the potmeter (?)from pedal assembly and try the pedal
if it is not working then problem is in pedal assembly
if it moves freely then problem is in the potmeter... or whatever it's called

[crackers450]

Yes that's the conversion, I will try that solution tomorrow, thank you for that
Cheers
laurie

[crackers450]

ok, had a look at the go pedal linkage it was bent under the pot micro switch, straightened that up, smooth acceleration but it is still jerky, sometimes drives fine then it will stop and nothing.
I followed all the instructions for testing, starting with the battery pack 40.2v, battery side of solenoid 40.2v controller side of solenoid 39.2v seems ok,
- test lead to B- on controller, + test lead to M- of controller press pedal until solenoid clicks NOTHING, is this right ?
what could be wrong or am I doing something wrong???
Cheers
laurie

is this a 36v or 48v ?

jack up rear of cart and place on jack stands

CHECKING CONTROLLER OUTPUT
Connect (-) probe to M- terminal.
Connect (+) probe to B+ terminal.
The reading should indicate approx. 0 volts.
Slowly depress accelerator pedal.
The reading should show the voltage increasing to battery voltage when fully depressed. If the voltage is at or near battery voltage and the motor is not turning, then the problem lies in either the forward/reverse switch, the wiring, or the motor.

[crackers450]

sorry it's 36v at the moment
Cheers
laurie

don't be sorry
i was wondering at your high readings on pack voltage
are your reading after unplugging cart or after a 12hr rest ?

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by crackers450

ok, had a look at the go pedal linkage it was bent under the pot micro switch, straightened that up, smooth acceleration but it is still jerky, sometimes drives fine then it will stop and nothing.
I followed all the instructions for testing, starting with the battery pack 40.2v, battery side of solenoid 40.2v controller side of solenoid 39.2v seems ok,
- test lead to B- on controller, + test lead to M- of controller press pedal until solenoid clicks NOTHING, is this right ?
what could be wrong or am I doing something wrong???
Cheers
laurie

Measuring the voltage between the B- and M- terminals on the controller, you should get full battery pack voltage (40.2?) when pedal is pushed just far enough to get solenoid to click.

Since you are getting 0V, there is an open someplace in the high current loop. The F/R switch contacts is the most likely suspect, but it could be any of the 13 or 14 high current cables, as well as the motor.

[crackers450]

the 40.2v is the battery pack just off the charger but it settles down to 38.2v, today I will wait 12 hours before doing it all again, it has scottyB's F&R switch & leads upgrade so I'll take the leads of the motor today and check the continuity of the posts, is there anything else I can do to make this cart run like it used to a week ago.

[scottyb]

Have you fixed the throttle linkage.
What was the cause of the pedal problem after years of trouble free operation?
Where the bent and damaged linkage parts restored or replaced?
Have you tested the throttle signal with ohm meter?
Does the Alltrax LED turn orange when you press the pedal all the way down?