EZGO with Curtis 1204 Controller issues

[Crownsd11]

Hey everyone, so I'm new to this forum and just bought a 36V EZGO with a Curtis 1204 controller. I bought it with no batteries. I went ahead and installed 6 new 6 V batteries and wired them up according to the EZGO diagram for a 1989-1994 EZGO Pre-medalist with Curtis 1204 controller, with all new cables. Put them on charge overnight and went to run the cart but no travel in either direction.

I don't even hear a humming noise or attempt of it wanting to travel. I do hear a click as soon as I press the pedal but nothing after that.

Not sure where to start and suggestions and advice here is appreciated

[scottyb]

Welcome to BGW - Ezgo Marathon ?
Solenoid clicks when you press the gas = good.
Test throttle signal with ohm meter = 0-5k
test controller output between M- and B- with cart on, in gear, begin at back voltage and decrease to near 0 when the pedal goes to the floor.
Yes and okay on all that, the F&R is likely bad.

[Crownsd11]

Thanks for the feedback Ill dive into this and let you know what I find. Just want to clarify

-Testing throttle signal ? Where exactly should I test ? I'm assuming on the wires coming of the potentiometer ?

-By F&R are you referring to the Forward Reverse switch or switch assembly ?


Thanks again

[scottyb]

Disconnect pot wires from controller terminal 2&3, plug your test leads into the spade terminals and work the go pedal... you should get something close to 0-5000Ω

F&R is short for Forward & Reverse switch, a notorious weak link in the series amperage delivery system. sometimes you can tighten the center pivot rod nut and regain contact on the rotary terminals but, it's a temp fix.

[Crownsd11]

I just did these checks and here's what I got

*Disconnected the POT readings are 0 with pedal up and 7K ohms with pedal all the way down

* controller output not sure If I did this right but I put my positive lead on Batt+ and the negative lead on B- on the controller I get full batt. voltage 37.5V with pedal up or down.

With positive lead on batt + and negative lead on M- on the controller I'm getting 17V, as soon as press the pedal and the contactor clicks I get 0 volts

Let me know if I missed a step or its looking like the F&R switch is the issue

Thanks

[scottyb]

Some tests were done wrong - go back and re read the instruction in post #2.

By the way 7000Ω is over the limit enough to case a no signal situation.

[Crownsd11]

Scottyb sorry to sound a bit out of place first time working on a golf cart here , can you be a little more specific on the test points for controller output? , You mentioned to check at B- and M- which is why I put my meter lead on batt positive assuming I'm checking the ground on B- and M- , let me know thanks

[Golf cart guy]

Here is an easy check.
Jack up the back of the cart. Have a 6 gauge battery cable, touch it to the B- and the M- post on the controller- put the cart in forward and step on the accelerator. Be careful as the cart will go full blast. If cart runs, you know everything works except the controller.

[rabbitreborn]

Originally Posted by Crownsd11

Scottyb sorry to sound a bit out of place first time working on a golf cart here , can you be a little more specific on the test points for controller output? , You mentioned to check at B- and M- which is why I put my meter lead on batt positive assuming I'm checking the ground on B- and M- , let me know thanks

you are supposed to be testing the voltage between B- and M-. One test lead attached to each of those post to read the voltage between them.

I personally do my test a little different. I place the Positive lead on the B+ and I place the ground lead on the M-. After pressing the pedal to the floor I want to see full pack voltage on the meter.

Originally Posted by Golf cart guy

Here is an easy check.
Jack up the back of the cart. Have a 6 gauge battery cable, touch it to the B- and the M- post on the controller- put the cart in forward and step on the accelerator. Be careful as the cart will go full blast. If cart runs, you know everything works except the controller.

If you decide to do this test I recommend 3 things.

#1, don't just hold the wire on there with your hand. use a pair of vice grips or something to secure the wire. (you can even bolt it in place if you want).

#2, before attaching the wire make sure the key is off and the cart is in neutral while attaching it. After it is attached , then switch the key on and put the cart in gear.

#3, most importantly, make sure the cart is well secured on jack stands before hitting the gas pedal. sending 36 volts to the motor all at once can have a VIOLENT reaction. I would hate to see you injured because the cart jumped off the jack.

[scottyb]

Originally Posted by Golf cart guy

Here is an easy check.
Jack up the back of the cart. Have a 6 gauge battery cable, touch it to the B- and the M- post on the controller- put the cart in forward and step on the accelerator. Be careful as the cart will go full blast. If cart runs, you know everything works except the controller.

This test is dangerous and not completely accurate. You would get the same results if the throttle signal is not working properly.