Clutch removal

[Silver swan]

New purchase that requires engine fix, not sure what’s the easiest route I want to take (rebuild, different motor, etc.)

Having an issue removing clutch past this point, motor is locked up.
It’s a 1996 FE290.
Suggestions please?

Hoping to post pic

[KRAZYMATT]

https://www.buggiesgonewild.com/show...1&postcount=10

[Silver swan]

Tried that already and got to this point, the rod I used may have been to small in diameter and is now inside the shaft with no idea how to get it out.

Not sure what’s next to get clutch completely off?

[rick62]

They make a tool that threads in to the whole clutch assembly that pulls it off the coned shaft. can you put it back together. and buy the tool on Amazon or EBAY. they make a cheap two piece one for $15 or les or a good one for around $30 that will last .

[Silver swan]

I’ve seen those and should have went that route, instead I put a 5 1/2 rod in and took 7/16 threaded bolt in to try and pop it off. Bolt got out but the rod is still inside clutch shaft.

I tried to save a buck and afraid it will cost me in the end.

[CP241]

If you didnt use a grade 8 or higher rod, it probably mushroomed inside the crankshaft threads. STOP NOW!

Your best bet at this point is to break/cut/whatever the clutch off the crankshaft. A new clutch is a lot cheaper thank a crankshaft.

The crankshaft itself is only about a couple.inches lomg.out of the block. See my sticky thread at the top "rebuilding a FE290" or whatever I titled it and it will have some pictures.

Once you get the clutch off you cam remove your rod. Luckily 96 would be a CCW rotation engine so a standard tap.will clean up the threads. 97+ uses a CW rotation engine and youd need a left hand thread tap for those.

[Silver swan]

I will take a look at your thread, not sure the easiest way to get that part of the clutch off but will do a lot of searching on this sight before I make an attempt.

Thanks for your response and will get busy searching.

Thanks

[Silver swan]

They were both grade 8, I did make sure of that.

[CP241]

The sheave is aluminum. You can bust it up pretty good with a hammer. I like a 3 lb drilling hammer flavor

Or you could use a cutoff wheel a d start to notch the sheave. Then use a chisel and split it. Shouldnt take much, those break pretty easy.

Then the collar that actually presses onto the crank should be steel. I do like a wheel bearing race, use a cutoff wheel to score it. Then a couple good smacks with a chisel and it will crack. Once its cracked, it will slide right off

[Silver swan]

Thanks for the advice, unfortunately I got a little close to the crank. From the pic is the crank salvageable?

Will need to clean up the threads a little w a tap but wasn’t as bad as I thought might be. Any help on that size would be grateful.

Thanks again for help/advice, really enjoy this forum.