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Old 09-20-2020, 02:02 PM   #1
Hit it like a champ
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Default Breaker

I don’t run my golf cart very much so I was thinking of adding this breaker on the negative side so instead of unhooking the negative wire I could just break it here with this be OK to do
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Old 09-20-2020, 02:07 PM   #2
kgsc
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Default Re: Breaker

Would it work, yes. But bad idea having something that can create sparks near hydrogen..
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Old 09-20-2020, 02:46 PM   #3
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Default Re: Breaker

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Originally Posted by kgsc View Post
.... bad idea having something that can create sparks near hydrogen..
How is this different than touching the negative battery cable to a battery post when reconnecting after servicing?
There normally should be no spark at all, unless there is a grounded to the frame connection somewhere, which shouldn't be.
If it was mounted on a frame rail at least it would be farther away from the battery vents.
A switch with enclosed contacts would be better, like this one -
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Old 09-20-2020, 02:58 PM   #4
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Default Re: Breaker

Some carts spark when connecting because it is charging the capacitors in the controller.
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Old 09-20-2020, 06:57 PM   #5
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Default Re: Breaker

Also if you have a voltage reducer, it will give a healthy spark for the same reason...
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Old 09-21-2020, 10:27 AM   #6
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Default Re: Breaker

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Also if you have a voltage reducer, it will give a healthy spark for the same reason...
Not sure about the OEM 16v to 12v reducer I had, it was one of the first things that was removed.
But, with an aftermarket 48v to 12v reducer I never get a spark when connecting the battery cables.
The 48v to 12v reducer doesn't get powered until the Key switch is on.
Mine is a newer system so probably doesn't charge up a capacitor.
But, with a system that is charging a capacitor, how is the spark different when connecting a battery terminal cable vs a remote switch?
I wouldn't use the open blade switch, an enclosed remote switch would be better than sparking at the battery terminal.
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Old 09-21-2020, 10:54 AM   #7
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Default Re: Breaker

Unless you have a high end converter like the DPI "no spark model", every DC-DC converter I have ever seen does spark when first connected due to the unregulated charging of its filter capacitors.

Also, the description of the trigger wire is not accurate for typical converters, the converter is Always powered, the trigger wire only controls when the 12v output is available.

DC switches need to be "fast acting" in order to reduce arcing since there is no 0v crossing to stop an arc like in AC operation.
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Old 09-21-2020, 06:48 PM   #8
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Default Re: Breaker

That's why I use your light bulb trick Sergio...
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Old 09-22-2020, 04:52 PM   #9
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Default Re: Breaker

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Originally Posted by Sergio View Post
Unless you have a high end converter like the DPI "no spark model", every DC-DC converter I have ever seen does spark when first connected due to the unregulated charging of its filter capacitors. ....
My 48v to 12v voltage reducer is 4 wire and does not get power until the Key switch activates a relay controlling the 48v input.
So, I guess mine is sparking inside the activation relay casing, but I don't know.
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Old 09-22-2020, 06:41 PM   #10
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Default Re: Breaker

Hydrogen doesn't linger around and accumulate. Once it escapes from the battery it's gone. A lot of contactors have exposed contacts.
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