2000 EZGO 42V won't run

[wrencher123]

How do I check the key switch?

[kgsc]

One way is to flip the run/tow to tow, unplug the J1 connector, put your meter on ohms with the leads on pins 8 and 9. Key on should have continuity, key off none.

[wrencher123]

No run/tow. Mine is a non PDS model.

[TexTurbo]

OK....

Here is a diagram of your series cart.
The BOLD lines are the motor power wires and have nothing to do with getting the solenoid to energize.

My suggestion is to print it out.... 2 copies..

Make ALL voltage checks with the black lead of your meter on Pack -

make notes on the appropriate printed copy....

This will keep you from getting confused, you are trying to get pack voltage at the red wire on the small terminal of the solenoid.

The most common failures here :
the "ignition interlock switch" in the charger port on the cart (prohibits running with charger plugged in)
the pedal switch (MS3 in diagram)
bad connection at 4 pin "Molex" connector between controller and pedal box wires. (look for a small connector with 1 each red, black, white, green wires)

Hope this helps

[kgsc]

My bad. Here is the activation circuit diagram.

[wrencher123]

Originally Posted by TexTurbo

OK....

Here is a diagram of your series cart.
The BOLD lines are the motor power wires and have nothing to do with getting the solenoid to energize.

My suggestion is to print it out.... 2 copies..

Make ALL voltage checks with the black lead of your meter on Pack -

make notes on the appropriate printed copy....

This will keep you from getting confused, you are trying to get pack voltage at the red wire on the small terminal of the solenoid.

The most common failures here :
the "ignition interlock switch" in the charger port on the cart (prohibits running with charger plugged in)
the pedal switch (MS3 in diagram)
bad connection at 4 pin "Molex" connector between controller and pedal box wires. (look for a small connector with 1 each red, black, white, green wires)

Hope this helps

I have full voltage coming out of the charger port.
There is no voltage at the pedal box microswitch.
I will look for the molex connector.

[TexTurbo]

I looked, but cant find a picture of the connector, my cart has been re-wired and doesnt have it,,,so here goes my description.....(cue the folks to point and laugh)

The connector is a male/female joined together...white/off white in color.... rectangle shaped..about 1/2" wide and 1 1/2" long...has 4 wires (red, green,black,white)
will be part of the harness of wires coming off the top connector on the controller..about a foot or so down the harness..

It is notorious for poor connections resulting in from not working at all to erratic throttle etc...the red and green wires are the ones you need to make sure are good for solenoid energizing.. the black & white are the throttle sensor (nothing to do with solenoid)

Another place to check is the switch (MS2 on diagram) located on the F/R assy.... look on the diagram, the pack voltage comes from the charge interlock to MS2 and then to the pedal switch (MS3)
You're on the right track,

Give it a try !

[wrencher123]

Will do, thanks!

[wrencher123]

My controller seems to be different than the one in the pics you sent.

Just for reference mine looks like this:
https://shop.txtsv.com/73060g01

[wrencher123]

OK, making some headway.

Following the wiring diagram I found the power coming out of the charger interface and followed it to the MS2 micro on the F/W unit.
44.2 volts coming out of red wire from charger interface.
43.6 volts at MS2 incoming post in forward position.
43.6 volts out at the blue wire post on MS2 going to ignition switch.
I haven't taken the ignition switch out yet but the green wire coming from the ignition switch to the MS3 switch shown only about 4 volts coming in with key on and still in forward position.
So bad ignition switch?

Whether right of wrong I attempted to jumper from Blue on MS2 to the MS3 post that holds the green wire and still could not activate anything. I did key off, key on, pedal up and pedal down and got nothing. Not sure what that indicates?

Any thoughts?
Getting at the key switch just drill out the 2 pop rivets and pull out?

Thanks a lot for all the help so far. I'm learning on the fly.

Is it possible for a key switch to be bad when it will turn on the lights in the far right but won;t pass power thru to the MS3 switch?