2001 EZ GO no go

[Gorhad]

Yes there is a black oval shaped switch on the dashboard with a red LED light

[sthreatt]

What you have is a 36 volt series cart with the rotating forward /reverse switch. More likely than not you are losing connection through that switch. Feel the cable connections on the backside of the switch. ( toward the controller ) See if any feel burned, charred, loose, or distorted and crooked.

[Gorhad]

Today took out the Curtis PMC controller and solenoid, (It's the 3 prong one without the A2 prong). Solenoid clicks in and out fine. The Diode and 250 Ohm resistor tested out to be in working order. Between the battery negative, I have 36 volts on each of the 4 motor terminals A1, A2, S1 & S2. The forward and reverse switch works fine, Accelerator micro switch is clicking and makes contact fine. So I'm at a loss. Could it be the controller? I can't find anywhere to explain how the controller operates and what it does

Oh i also test the motor as per this youtube video. Motor spins fine

[URL="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q39lY84w2S0"]


Thanks in anticipation

[sthreatt]

On the back side of the F/R switch, unbolt S1 and move it to the bottom terminal. Bolt it on to the bottom terminal along with the cable thats already there. Unbolt S2 and move it to the top terminal, along with the cable thats already there. With the rear wheels jacked off the floor, see if the cart will run then. That will reveal if there is no amperage passing through the F/R switch. If it won't run with the F/R switch bypassed, then I'd say bad controller.

[hot-shot]

Just worked on the same cart for my neighbor. He had worked on the cart prior. He had the diode on the solenoid facing the wrong direction. The other problem was the 4 pin molex connector near the controller. As a test I took the connector apart and sprayed it with electrical contact cleaner. Reconnected the 4 pin connector. The cart ran for a couple of hours and then failed again. I cut the connector off and used crimp connectors to connect the wires direct. All good now.

[Gorhad]

Ok, so I installed a new controller, ITS module, and still the same thing. Took the F/R switch out, tested the continuity and both micro-switches are fine. Ordered a new F/R switch from Amazon should be here today will update after installation. I'm banging my head against a brick wall with this. cables are all in nice condition, no heat, no corrosion

[nickdalzell1]

Also make sure the motor isn't open circuit. With one this old it's possible the brushes might have failed or there's an open between A1 and A2 or S1 and S2. A continuity test with a multimeter (with the motor wires disconnected) should rule that out.

If the F/N/R, controller, and ITS are good, but motor is bad, with key on, direction in F or R, and full throttle you should have reference voltage (~37V) with red test lead on B+ and black test lead on M-. If you got zip, it's either F/R switch, ITS or controller. The controller on these doesn't often fail so testing those other causes is what I would do first.

[Gorhad]

Thanks, nickdalzell1

I installed a new controller, ITS and today I will fit the F/R switch. If still no motion I will carry out the tests you mention above

[Gorhad]

Fitted a new F/R switch and it's still a go. Tested the motor for continuity between A1 and A2 or S1 and S2 and they test ok. What I did notice when connecting the micro switches wires back on was that the orange, red, and blue female spade connectors are very loose and rusted so i plan on renewing those crimps tomorrow

[Gorhad]

Still

struggling on with this demon cart

Would it be possible to check my wiring connections on the front and back of the F/R switch, please? Also on the MS2 & MS4 switches, does the blue wire connect to the Normally closed contact and the red wire from the charger connect to the Common on MS2, then does the orange wire connect to the Normally closed MS4 as per attached

Thanks a bunch