Voltage reducer only coming on when in gear

[mzimme14]

Originally Posted by kgsc

The flow of power to the circuit starts at the reed switch then goes to the micro on the fnr, then to the key switch hence why when you shift it you lose power at the key switch. You could rewire it such that it went to the key switch first and then to the fnr.

Sorry, for the dumb guys in the back (me), what's the reed switch in this circuit?

[kgsc]

Ignition interlock. On the charger port.

[mzimme14]

Originally Posted by kgsc

Ignition interlock. On the charger port.

I'll have to double check if I even have one of these. I can move the cart while the charger is plugged in (or at least I used to be able to with the old guts of the golf cart), so based on my googling it's either bypassed or has been removed somehow. I'll check and see if it moves with the charger plugged in when get home.

[kgsc]

It probably has been bypassed. Check the wire going to the top of the FnR that goes to both micros. I bet it goes to the pack positive.

[scottyb]

Originally Posted by kgsc

The flow of power to the circuit starts at the reed switch then goes to the micro on the fnr, then to the key switch hence why when you shift it you lose power at the key switch. You could rewire it such that it went to the key switch first and then to the fnr.

This is a good idea.
Originally battery power went to the F&R ms to the key to the pedal ms to the solenoid and controller.
Modification = battery to key to F&R ms to the pedal ms

The important feature to maintain is the F&R's ability to cut power to the controller in neutral.

[mzimme14]

Originally Posted by scottyb

This is a good idea.
Originally battery power went to the F&R ms to the key to the pedal ms to the solenoid and controller.
Modification = battery to key to F&R ms to the pedal ms

The important feature to maintain is the F&R's ability to cut power to the controller in neutral.

To your point about cutting power in neutral... I think it does that (i don't move forward or reverse).

One thing I did notice though once I hooked up the pack is that the green LED for my controller stays lit at all times... key on, key off, forward, reverse, neutral... it's always lit up.

Is this normal for a navitas controller?

[scottyb]

Originally Posted by mzimme14

To your point about cutting power in neutral... I think it does that (i don't move forward or reverse).

One thing I did notice though once I hooked up the pack is that the green LED for my controller stays lit at all times... key on, key off, forward, reverse, neutral... it's always lit up.

Is this normal for a navitas controller?

The stock control and the Alltrax need to be off in neutral in case anybody was to accidentally switch direction while moving.
I don't know much about the navitas control.

[ManikMonday]

I just got through this issue myself as I wanted constant 12v power (no radio/lights turning off when switching gears). To achieve this I took advice from this thread

I ordered a 3 way ignition and some rocker switches (wired to fuse box) to turn on front lights and future 12v items. Luckily since I did not need the old gauge meter I already had a positive wire nicely ran to the dash.

So now my ignition works as desired: off -> accessories (12v reducer trigger, horn, brake lights, rocker switches, etc) -> motor.

Hope that helps!

[mzimme14]

Originally Posted by scottyb

The stock control and the Alltrax need to be off in neutral in case anybody was to accidentally switch direction while moving.
I don't know much about the navitas control.

Ok, I got confirmation that the light will stay on unless wired to a key switch.

Hmm... more than one reason to make some changes.

I attached the wiring diagram for my controller with no modifications to it, and then a second photo with the circuits it seems need to be modified for both the controller on/off control with key switch and voltage reducer on/off control with the key switch.

Would you mind looking at these and confirming I'm on the right track? The thumbnail is my own drawing. PDF file is the documentation from navitas.

[mzimme14]

Originally Posted by ManikMonday

I just got through this issue myself as I wanted constant 12v power (no radio/lights turning off when switching gears). To achieve this I took advice from this thread

I ordered a 3 way ignition and some rocker switches (wired to fuse box) to turn on front lights and future 12v items. Luckily since I did not need the old gauge meter I already had a positive wire nicely ran to the dash.

So now my ignition works as desired: off -> accessories (12v reducer trigger, horn, brake lights, rocker switches, etc) -> motor.

Hope that helps!

This might be the less "hackjob" route to do this. What keyswitch did you buy?

I have a hot wire going to the dash already with rocker switches so it likely wouldn't be a big job. Thanks for posting.