1995 48v Club Car Wont Go

[scottyb]

If you have 50v at both large terminals on the solenoid all the time then the solenoid has failed in the closed position and must be replaced.

The cart may have a potentiometer at the gas peddle under the floor.

[mpcolwell]

Thanks scotty... Found the v-glide next to the spring under the pedal.... I suspected a solenoid problem and u just confirmed it.... If that solves the problem for $50 I'm a happy m

an...

[mpcolwell]

OK.... I have what I think is a pretty good update... Batteries still holding strong. New OBC is allowing me to charge properly. Replaced the microswitches at the f&r. Replaced the solenoid and it still wont click when pedal pressed or when jumped. Got my hands on a manual. There is what seems to be a 20 step process for troubleshooting a solenoid that wont click.. Made it through about 7 steps.. Verified the key switch is good, the microswitch at the potentiometer is good, all solenoid terms are good, batteries are good, continuity between controler and motor are good. Then I made it to the controler circuit test. In this test I pulled two 18 guage wires from terminals 2 and 3 and sometimes called b and c from the controler. I put my VOM testers to the wires and slowly press the accelerator pedal.. The ohms readings should go gradually up to several thousand. Nothing happend during my test. I could use some advise to make sure I performed the test correctly before I buy a potentiometer...
What I did:
1) Discommected positive and negative leads to batteries
2) key switch off
3) inserted probes into the two wires coming off terminals 2and3 of the controller
4) set vom to continuity test setting
5) slowly depressed pedal
*************
Thanks for all the help

[mpcolwell]

oh.. and the resistor and the diode on the solenoid checked out during there tests as well.

[mpcolwell]

also... if i am doing the test correctly to identify the potentiometer as the problem, is there a way to temp bypass it to see if my solenoid clicks and motor turns???
thanks

[wilsontc81]

Normally on these carts it is not so much the potentiometer, but the microswitch on the potentiometer. The vglide you are referring to, is it in the battery compartment? I think yours has the same as mine (97). If so, on the drivers side of the battery compartment, there will be a black box, pie shaped, take the drivers side cover off, in the middle, you should see a microswitch, take wires loose and test for continuity. Mine was doing same as yours and I just had one of those wires loose. Either way, that is the switch that turns the solenoid on, if you have the same setup as the 97.

[mpcolwell]

Awesome update time..... When I took my cart to the cart store a year ago I asked them what the toggle switch hidden under a cup holder was for and they never told me.... Its a freakin anti-theft device!!!!!!! When its in the open position it severes the key power from everything else!!!! Ahhhhhhhh... It was bad so I removed it and started over with my testing and got stuck at a sol test... Resistor between the large terms is supposed to show approx 250 ohms..... Mine shows 238... Didn't know if that was close enough so I decided, what the heck... Let's jump the solenoid... I have a running cart again!!!!!!!!!

Question:
Is there agreement that the resistor is bad or should I be looking elsewhere?
Thanks

[wilsontc81]

If you jumped the solenoid and it ran, it could be solenoid or the microswitch I described. Just have to test the make sure. The microswitch I described, kicks the solenoid on.