Powerwise Charger

[Blowerman]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

Simple man nailed it.
That is an automatic type charger, the timer tells you how long the charger was on, or terminates the charge if the on-charge voltage doesn't reach the 44V to 46V cut-off point in 12 hours.

It is built like a tank and is 100% repairable. Due to costing more than a good replacement charger, it is not economically feasible to replace the transformer, but they are available.

You're on the right track about towing the race car. Feather the throttle to get it moving and once you get up to walking speed, you can shovel more coal on the fire.

Feel the motor, cables, connections, controller, solenoid and F/R switch after towing the racer. The motor and controller will warm up quite a bit, but shouldn't get hot.
The cables, connections and other stuff shouldn't warm up much at all. If they do, they need to be fixed or replaced with higher capacity items.

Which Alltrax NPX, the 4834 or 4844? (300A or 400A).

Good advice for sure. I've replaced a couple cables already due to a little warmth anf being stiff. Makes a difference for sure. (Heat=resistance)
The contrpller is a NPX 4834. Wow! You sure know this stuff.
Jeff Ramsay

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

[simple man]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

Simple man nailed it.
That is an automatic type charger, the timer tells you how long the charger was on, or terminates the charge if the on-charge voltage doesn't reach the 44V to 46V cut-off point in 12 hours.

It is built like a tank and is 100% repairable. Due to costing more than a good replacement charger, it is not economically feasible to replace the transformer, but they are available.

You're on the right track about towing the race car. Feather the throttle to get it moving and once you get up to walking speed, you can shovel more coal on the fire.

Feel the motor, cables, connections, controller, solenoid and F/R switch after towing the racer. The motor and controller will warm up quite a bit, but shouldn't get hot.
The cables, connections and other stuff shouldn't warm up much at all. If they do, they need to be fixed or replaced with higher capacity items.

Which Alltrax NPX, the 4834 or 4844? (300A or 400A).

Honestly, I have yet to see a transformer in one of these go bad! I've seen some really abused ones, too! Usually the diodes go bad.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by simple man

Honestly, I have yet to see a transformer in one of these go bad! I've seen some really abused ones, too! Usually the diodes go bad.

I suspect there probably have been some that have failed or they probably wouldn't be available as replacement parts, but my comment was to qualify me saying it was 100% reparable.

Having dealt with lawyers and regulatory agencies, I have an aversion to making absolute statements.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by Blowerman

Good advice for sure. I've replaced a couple cables already due to a little warmth anf being stiff. Makes a difference for sure. (Heat=resistance)
The contrpller is a NPX 4834. Wow! You sure know this stuff.
Jeff Ramsay

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

I'm just regurgitating what I've learned here.

All 13 high current cables should be 4Ga or heavier, high strand count, welding cable with closed end lug terminals and the gap between the lug and the cable insulation should be sealed air-tight.

When the Solenoid fails, replace it with one rated at 200A continuous, or greater.
When the F/R switch fails, replace it with a heavy duty one.

Remember, it is a series circuit, so total current passes through everything in the high current loop and they all have top be up to par if you don't want to have to call a tow-truck for your tow-cart.

[yurtle]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

Having dealt with lawyers and regulatory agencies, I have an aversion to making absolute statements.

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

When the Solenoid fails, replace it with one rated at 200A continuous, or greater.
When the F/R switch fails, replace it with a heavy duty one.

[dnas501@hotmail.com]

Johnnie:

When I say "Ground" I mean the chassi. (I deal more with AC power than DC)
I think I have a better understanding of how to test the diodes, thanks to your description.

I will try it and let youknow what readings I see.

As for the cart that wont go into reverse.
It is a DCS model with the toggle switch on the controller.

I do here a click when the batteries are charged and the unit wants to move.

But only moves forward.

I will check this a bit further now that I know that the motor winding are the same only the polarity of the DC power to the motor changes. Is that correct?


Thanks again..


"If it's man made we can fix it"

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by dnas501@hotmail.com

Johnnie:

1. When I say "Ground" I mean the chassi. (I deal more with AC power than DC)

2. I think I have a better understanding of how to test the diodes, thanks to your description.
I will try it and let youknow what readings I see.

3. As for the cart that wont go into reverse.
It is a DCS model with the toggle switch on the controller.

4. I do here a click when the batteries are charged and the unit wants to move.
But only moves forward.

5. I will check this a bit further now that I know that the motor winding are the same only the polarity of the DC power to the motor changes. Is that correct?


Thanks again..


"If it's man made we can fix it"

1. The battery pack is akin to an arc welder, so for safety reasons, the body and frame of a golf cart isn't connected to the battery pack in any way, shape or form. Or at least it shouldn't be.
This safety precaution is carried through to the charger output.

2.

3. A DCS is a very different animal than a Series cart. It uses a Sepex (SEParately EXcited) motor.
In a series wound motor, the same total current passes through both the Armature ans Stator windings.
In a Sepex motor, the high current only passes through the Armature windings and a separate, much smaller, current passes through the stator (aka Field) windings.

4. The stock DCS controller has a fatal flaw. It doesn't have a low voltage cut-off and they have a tendency to self-destruct when operated at too low of a voltage.
Changing the direction of current flow in the field winding is done within the controller, so if the solenoid is clicking in both directions, but cart only moves in one of them, it is very likely the controller is bad.
The good news is that with an aftermarket controller like an Alltrax DCX400(DCS), it is a speedy cart with good torque and is reliable.

5. No, not quite. It is the relative direction of current flow in the two set of windings that determine which direction the motor spins.
In early series carts (Marathon) the polarity of the Armature is changed by a mechanical switch.
In later series carts (Medalist and TXT) the polarity of the Stator windings is switched mechanically.
In Sepex carts (DCS and PDS) the polarity of the Field windings is switched electrically inside the controller. The F/R switch only tells the controller what to do, rather than carrying the high current going through the motor windings.

Here are schematics for both a DCS and a Series cart.

[yurtle]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

In early series carts (Marathon) the polarity of the Armature is changed by a mechanical switch.
In later series carts (Medalist and TXT) the polarity of the Stator windings is switched mechanically.

Is there any reason they would have switched, other than to (maybe) save some copper?

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by yurtle

Is there any reason they would have switched, other than to (maybe) save some copper?

I don't know for sure, but it might have had something to do with brush/commutator wear, or maybe something as non-technical as it was easier to draw the schematic if they switched the stator current flow instead of the armature current flow.

[butch mitch]

Have replaced both diodes still blows 50 amp fuse polarity is coract