Newbie looking for a wiring double check

Originally Posted by mymonstertruck

as long as your key switch is a 48V switch. Then yes you can wire it to the key switch. you can test your key switch with a volt meter. when you turn the key on you should have 48volts arcoss the switch. the factory key switches are 48volts.

yep ! cc prec is 48v + at key

dotted line is if you want reducer on all the time ... if you do that then just wire power and memory to fuse block and ground to fuse block ground

inho .. reducer on all the time does not pull that much power ... and keeping the park it and plug it rule will keep batteries fully charged ...if you leave cart unused for a long time disconnect reducer

[mrgolf]

Not sure how much load you plan to pull. The key switch will handle about 10 amps, just my guess. The amps pulled on the 12 volt side will be less load on the 48 volt side.

My lights brake lights, tail lights, and fan. Come to about 8-9 amps on my 12 volt side. While the load on the reducer 48 volt side is just 3-4 amp. So you should be ok just using the key switch as your 48 volt power source.

[Chewie]

Well, my cart already has lights on it that are wired to a switch on the dash, so all that would be on this reducer would be radio, horn and accessory outlet. That shouldn't draw more than a couple of amps, so I will probably wire off the key. This means I need to test the wires to see which side is hot, then put my cart into tow so I can jump another wire off the hot side of the ignition. I will run a ground from neg side of the batteries directly and put a wire directly onto one battery (not at the end of the chain) for radio memory.

That sounds right based on what you guys have said.

Thanks so much for the help guys!

[mrgolf]

You want to put a wire from the cold side of the key switch to the reducer 48 volt input. This way when you turn the key on you will have the 48 volts.

[Chewie]

That is what I meant, sorry, I typed it wrong.

Thanks again!

not to get picky with you but you need to wire lights into the reducer also ... this is to keep your battery pack equalized

put a wire directly onto one battery (not at the end of the chain) for radio memory.

that is wrong ... you need to run the memory wire to the last battery positive... same as where the neg goes to reducer.. this will give you 12v+ to memory wire
this is how i would wire it ... remember current runs neg to pos

[mymonstertruck]

Originally Posted by crash test dummy

not to get picky with you but you need to wire lights into the reducer also ... this is to keep your battery pack equalized


that is wrong ... you need to run the memory wire to the last battery positive... same as where the neg goes to reducer.. this will give you 12v+ to memory wire
this is how i would wire it ... remember current runs neg to pos

Ditto

[Chewie]

Well, my precedent is an older model that was pre wired for the light kit, so I do not have to wire my light kit through the reducer. That also should lighten the load on my reducer since I plan to install it post ignition.

Thanks so much for all he advice guys. And thanks for the diagram CTD!

[Chewie]

Just a quick follow up and thank you to you guys. I got this all wired up just like CTD's diagram indicated and I now have my radio, a horn and a PA (cheap PS with a mic and some sounds for screwing with the kids) coming off my fuse block. Wired through the ignition and ran the memory wire to the positive on the first battery in the chain works great!

Next step, 6" lift it and larger tires! Maybe a speed code 5 upgrade!

Thanks again guys!