Verifying Local Golf Shop Opinion

[swsawyer@reagan.com]

Need some expert opinions, please.

After picking up my ‘10 CC Precedent for the LGS (see previous thread, re: cart won’t move) due to work schedule, it was a couple of weeks before I crawled under it. Much to my surprise, the plastic cover covering the back of controller and solenoid was missing. I stopped by the LGS to retrieve it, assuming someone just forgot to put it back on, the mechanic said “we typically remove those to allow better circulation and cooling for those larger controllers.” While that made sense to me, I countered with, but mine is a hunting buggy, while I don’t take it swimming in the creeks, it does see the occasional mud hole. Wouldn’t that cover help keep things dry(er)? His reply was, “it doesn’t matter, everything back there is sealed. As long as you don’t take it swimming, you should be fine.” I said, OK, thanks, and went along my way.

Well, yesterday, I took my daughter and said cart to the hunting club to look around and see how much timber had been cut since the end of hunting season. Since it has been raining a good bit these last couple of weeks, the mud holes were plentiful. We eased (and I do mean EASED) through the first two holes. The water was barely covering the bottom of the rims and the bottoms were firm, so we did not sink at all. But, in the middle of the third hole, the cart just quit, dead in the water. The pack was showing 50.3v and all the lights worked fine, but nothing happened when I pressed the go pedal. After dragging it out, I crawled under and things were “fairly dry” underneath.

After finally getting it home last night and on the rack this morning, I found The F2 spade connector “a little loose” but connected on the controller. I pushed it tight and looked around, but couldn’t find anything else amidst. So I mashed the go pedal, nothing happened. The I remembered to flip the switch from Tow to Run and bam, tires stared spinning.

So, here are my questions.

1) is my LGS mechanic’s statement about not needing a splash guard correct?

2) any guesses as to what might cause the F2 connector to work loose, all of the sudden?

3) any recommendations to protect the underside on a hunting cart?

As always, thanks for the advice and your patience with a golf cart newbie.
Sean

[Mooncarter]

Most likely it just worked loose.

[WalterM6]

It's your golf cart. They shouldn't have modified it w/o your permission.

[kgsc]

Not sure but I read that as we were too lazy to put it back on.

[TahoeDawgZ71]

They claim they leave it off because they want extra cooling for the controller. What kind of controller is it? If it's an XCT, the splash guard is not necessary.

[swsawyer@reagan.com]

Controller - Navitas 600 amp with OTF programmer. Actually it is the blue, Madjax branded version.

Much to my surprise, the plastic cover covering the back of controller and solenoid was missing.

i don't see what you are talking about

2008+ install

You Tube

You Tube

[TahoeDawgZ71]

Originally Posted by swsawyer@reagan.com

Controller - Navitas 600 amp with OTF programmer. Actually it is the blue, Madjax branded version.

One of the Navitas experts will have to let you know then. Sorry, I can't help you with that one.

[Fairtax4me]

Those controllers don't use air to cool them. Well they do, but its not airflow over the controller that cools it. The controller base is a heat sink, and if properly mounted with a heat conductive paste, the controller uses the aluminum mounting plate as its heat sink. Airflow over the mounting plate is what will cool the controller. If the plastic cover prevents airflow over the mounting plate, then there is good reason to leave it off. Doesn't seem to me like the cover would block that much air flow, but I'm not in the business of installing aftermarket controllers.

I wouldn't worry about the controller getting wet. I would apply some kind of anti-corrosion or di-electric grease to the bolts and wire terminals on the controller and solenoid to help prevent rust or corrosion due to exposure to water.