Precedent timing out after 20 seconds

[ds46000]

Greetings all,

I am fortunate enough to live close to tahoedawg who has been a big help in fixing a 2004 club car precedent that i am working on. He has family obligations this weekend so I thought I'd query the gallery here for some diagnosis on a mystery problem. Here's the background:

2004 Precdent, purchased it not running and it had been sitting for a year or two.
Put new batteries in it, but nothing would work, no sounds, no movement, no nothing.
Called David who actually looked at it in person & through various diagnostic procedures determined it was likely the controller. Purchased a new controller from him, along with a couple resistors that were to be installed near the pedal assembly, as the new controller required those resistors in order to work correctly.
Installed all of that, and still nothing.
I bypassed the OBC and was able to get the reverse buzz & cart movement. David suspected the problem had been 2 fold, controller & computer.
Ordered a used but working Version "5" OBC from Ebay which David confirmed was the correct part.
Installed but still nothing.
Messed with it for several hours plugging & unplugging wires, jumping things, bypassing OBC etc...and I got it to the folowing status:

Everyting works 100%, cart runs fine, reverse & forward work, speed is good, etc...all for ONLY 20 seconds. Then it will seemingly "time out" and the cart goes dead and nothing works, until I flip the Tow/Reverse switch back & forth 1 time. It will run perfectly for 20 seconds & then time out again.

David suspects MCOR, but didn't sound 100% convinced and i hate throwing more parts at it at this point. I've googled the symptoms & cannot find one single instance relating to a "timing out" issue on any of the forums or videos.

Does anyone have any thoughts? Again, everything is perfect after I flip from tow to run, for exactly 20 seconds, and then it's like all power is being cut from the solenoid & everything stops until i filp the switch again.

Head scratcher for sure...any help is greatly apppreciated. I've been a member here for a couple years and have gotten some very good advice, have never had much to contribute as I am a novice. I know just enough to get in trouble!

Just wanted to say thanks in advance & thanks for a quality forum with quality members, and special thanks to David/Tahoedawg as I know he will read this at some point.

Edited to add: Cart took a full charge last night via the OEM factory club car charger, and the charger cut off like it is supposed to upon fully charging the batteries.

[ds46000]

I should also add I did the 4x12V to 6x8V conversion as well, when installing the new batteries.

Not sure if that would make any difference or not but thought it might be worth mentioning.

[NoleFan4Ever]

Unplug the two pin connector from the MCOR (under the floor and connected to a linkage from the pedal) and jump out the connector with a paper clip or a small piece of wire. It will be a blue wire and green wire connector. If it runs with the jumper in place, your MCOR has failed.

If it still does it, there was a problem with the '03's and a "Drop Out Harness" corrected it from doing what you described. David can confirm if it might be that.

The other thing to do is if jumpering out the MCOR above does not fix it, then when it happens again, take your DVM and test the small posts on the solenoid and see if you have the 48v required to close it. If not, then probe the Positive activation wire and then the Negative activation wire and lets determine which input you have lost.

[ds46000]

Thanks NoleFan, I jumped out the MCOR but the problem persists.

When you say to test the small posts on the solenoid, do you mean the ones with 1 blue wire and 1 blue & white wire? Am i leaving those wires attached during this test or removing them from the posts?

The solenoid also has a large set of red wires going to 1 side and a large set of yellow wires going to the other side which are attached to the main large solenoid posts.

Can you give me the specifics on where to probe with each of my multimeter probes. (For instance, remove both smaller blue wires from small posts and probe one side w/ positive probe while holding negative probe on so & so).

Thanks again for the help.

[ds46000]

Jumping the MCOR did not resolve it, and neither does jumping the OBC. Problem persists with both of these jumped out.

Flipping the tow/run switch essentially enegizes the system for 20 seconds while the cart can be driven or just sit there, after 20 seconds it times out and loses all power.

[NoleFan4Ever]

Originally Posted by ds46000

-snip-
Can you give me the specifics on where to probe with each of my multimeter probes. (For instance, remove both smaller blue wires from small posts and probe one side w/ positive probe while holding negative probe on so & so).

Thanks again for the help.

(Cart jacked up, key on, rocker switch in Fwd, and pedal depressed)
At the solenoid small posts do the following:
1- Take your DVM and place the red lead on the solid blue wire and the black lead on the main pack negative. You should get 48vdc or pack voltage (If not, we lost the Pos Input)
2- Next, take your DVM and place the black lead on the blue/white stripe wire and the red lead on the main pack positive. You should get 48vdc or pack voltage (If not, we lost the Neg input)
If you are getting those then solenoid should be closing. If it is not, remove the wires from the 2 small posts and check the 2 posts resistance (ohms) across them. If none, the energizing coil is bad and the solenoid needs to be replaced. If the coil shows resistance, but the solenoid is not closing, tap on the side of it gently and see if it actuates, if it does not, then you will have to replace it.

Remember, your cart must be in a failed or inoperative status for this to be a valid test.

[NoleFan4Ever]

Here is how you test the MCOR's potentiometer output, but remember, it will only be a valid test when the cart is inoperative or in a failed state. (If the cart is running, don't perform the test......

With the batteries connected, Tow/Run switch in Run; place the black (–) probe on packs main Negative post and the red (+) probe on the yellow wire at the 3-pin connector near the MCOR. (The reading should be approximately ~0.32vdc - 0.5vdc with the pedal up). Slowly press the Go Pedal and the readings should increase until it reaches ~4.65vdc or higher when the pedal is fully pressed. (Anything less than 4.60vdc and you are not reaching full throttle). If the reading is erratic or jumps all over the place it is a bad MCOR output signal and will need to be replaced.

[Gazoo]

X-File.....

[IslandCart]

Is this the same process on an IQ and Excel System? I'm have problems with a PH Cart myself.

Originally Posted by NoleFan4Ever

Here is how you test the MCOR's potentiometer output, but remember, it will only be a valid test when the cart is inoperative or in a failed state. (If the cart is running, don't perform the test......

With the batteries connected, Tow/Run switch in Run; place the black (–) probe on packs main Negative post and the red (+) probe on the yellow wire at the 3-pin connector near the MCOR. (The reading should be approximately ~0.32vdc - 0.5vdc with the pedal up). Slowly press the Go Pedal and the readings should increase until it reaches ~4.65vdc or higher when the pedal is fully pressed. (Anything less than 4.60vdc and you are not reaching full throttle). If the reading is erratic or jumps all over the place it is a bad MCOR output signal and will need to be replaced.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

[NoleFan4Ever]

Originally Posted by IslandCart

Is this the same process on an IQ and Excel System? I'm have problems with a PH Cart myself.

Yes