motor slipping, 05 precedent

[scubabud]

I'm sure it's a whole lot easier to test your battery pack voltage as well as look to see how old your pack really is. If it's the original pack then 5 years is a lot for 4 12v batteries. Look at the negative terminal of one of your batteries, (hopefully they are all the same in type and age,) and see what the first number is. If it's a 5 then they were made in 2005, a 6 then in 2006 and so on. The letter represents the month, A for Jan, B for Feb and so on. My batteries are L8 which means they were made in December of 2008.

So tell us the pack voltage after a complete charge and sitting for several hours as well as the year of your batteries. I would also check all battery leads for being clean and tight as well as the cables going to your motor. Place the Tow/Run switch to Tow and make sure you use a wrench that will not touch 2 terminals at the same time, like a shorty that has a coated handle.

[TahoeDawgZ71]

If this were a series system I'd agree about the batteries being the problem. IQ cars do not "shutter"... they just don't go when the batteries are dead. Check them none the less though.... If they are originals they're probably shot, but they wont cause it to be jumpy.... not on a Precedent IQ.

[1ramey]

Originally Posted by scubabud

I'm sure it's a whole lot easier to test your battery pack voltage as well as look to see how old your pack really is. If it's the original pack then 5 years is a lot for 4 12v batteries. Look at the negative terminal of one of your batteries, (hopefully they are all the same in type and age,) and see what the first number is. If it's a 5 then they were made in 2005, a 6 then in 2006 and so on. The letter represents the month, A for Jan, B for Feb and so on. My batteries are L8 which means they were made in December of 2008.

So tell us the pack voltage after a complete charge and sitting for several hours as well as the year of your batteries. I would also check all battery leads for being clean and tight as well as the cables going to your motor. Place the Tow/Run switch to Tow and make sure you use a wrench that will not touch 2 terminals at the same time, like a shorty that has a coated handle.

I will check it out more this afternoon but I looked at the battery age real quick. C8 so March 2008 correct? I will test the batteries this afternoon. I took the cover off in the bagwell and listened to the motor when someone pressed the pedal. I know I said slipping but its like the motor turns several revolutions before it kicks in. Kind of like when a starter turns but doesn't kick in to crank. Thanks so far for everyone's help!!!!

[scubabud]

Originally Posted by TahoeDawgZ71

If this were a series system I'd agree about the batteries being the problem. IQ cars do not "shutter"... they just don't go when the batteries are dead. Check them none the less though.... If they are originals they're probably shot, but they wont cause it to be jumpy.... not on a Precedent IQ.

Good to know How about corroded terminals or possibly loose? Would or could they give a similar symptom as a bad motor could such as one time fast and one time slow as he suggested in his second post?

[TahoeDawgZ71]

Originally Posted by scubabud

Good to know How about corroded terminals or possibly loose? Would or could they give a similar symptom as a bad motor could such as one time fast and one time slow as he suggested in his second post?

Not really... IQ cars usually either work great, or dont work at all. A loss of voltage through a bad terminal or wire should cause it not to run at all. Normally the solenoid would click, then drop right back out because it cant get enough power to make it go. These cars are very dependent on high voltage when accelerating. They actually require so much voltage to get up to speed that it makes battery indicators on these cars give inaccurate readings all the time.

[scubabud]

Originally Posted by TahoeDawgZ71

Not really... IQ cars usually either work great, or dont work at all. A loss of voltage through a bad terminal or wire should cause it not to run at all. Normally the solenoid would click, then drop right back out because it cant get enough power to make it go. These cars are very dependent on high voltage when accelerating. They actually require so much voltage to get up to speed that it makes battery indicators on these cars give inaccurate readings all the time.

Thanks

[1ramey]

Originally Posted by scubabud

Good to know How about corroded terminals or possibly loose? Would or could they give a similar symptom as a bad motor could such as one time fast and one time slow as he suggested in his second post?

Ok, I checked all the terminals and they look really good!! No Corrosion at all on the terminals, there is some type of lubricant on the connections I assume to keep the corrosion off. The 3 batteries checked out at 12.90 and the other one was 12.80. Oh, by the way all of the connections are tight as well.

[TahoeDawgZ71]

Originally Posted by 1ramey

Ok, I checked all the terminals and they look really good!! No Corrosion at all on the terminals, there is some type of lubricant on the connections I assume to keep the corrosion off. The 3 batteries checked out at 12.90 and the other one was 12.80. Oh, by the way all of the connections are tight as well.

My money is still on the motor... Let us know when you find out what the problem is.

[FIXEROFCARTS]

Pulling the motor will tell the story.

[1ramey]

Originally Posted by TahoeDawgZ71

My money is still on the motor... Let us know when you find out what the problem is.

Ok, this is what I have. I pulled the motor thanks by the way to scubabud, read AMDnutt's thread about his PQ Motor and got some insight on how to get the motor off correctly. It definitely had a smell to it when I pulled it off. Are there any other signs I may see now that I have it off? Does anyone know the difference in price of a new stock motor from a CC dealer versus PQ?