Rusted parts makes for a longer then expected task

[MIKESTREK]

Originally Posted by sunoco

I always replace those on the bottom front of the rear body piece with a hex head.

The lift kit shouldn't be too bad. The only bolts I ever seem to have problems with are the front bolts of the rear springs. Everything else is usually not horrible. 2 hrs is a stretch for a lift I think. I can get one on on about 3 as long as there are no issues

That's another thing I'm worried about is removing the bolts on those rear springs I keep reading posts in here that they have to cut the bolts to remove the rear springs. I'm going to replace mine in about a month and I don't have anything to cut those bolts. I'm wondering if I should buy a cutting tool in advance or just cross my fingers that those bolts will just come off?

[sunoco]

I usually use a sawzall to cut mine. Cut it on both sides of the spring through the bushing then beat what's left out of the frame. I've had to drill it out when it wouldn't budge

[golf cart man]

As far as the bolts it really depends on the cart. I just completely took apart a 1985 DS sprayed it with PB the night before and had no problems at all.

[MIKESTREK]

Originally Posted by golf cart man

As far as the bolts it really depends on the cart. I just completely took apart a 1985 DS sprayed it with PB the night before and had no problems at all.

I'm hoping I end up just like your 1985. I have a 2001 DS and I purchased a couple of cans of PB blaster but I guess anything goes with all these different Golf carts.

[Waverider969]

When you guys are talking about the front bolt on the leaf spring are you talking about the one that runs horizontal at the very end of the spring where it at attaches to the shackle? Just for kicks I've tried loosing mine while I was down there and it seemed to come unscrewed fine after I blasted it with Pb blaster. I did not attempt to pull the bolt out since I'm not ready to disconnect the leaf spring yet. Still waiting on my Jales A-arm 6" lift kit which seems to be on back order. Argh.

the nuts are not hard to take off on the front it's the sleeve in the bushings that's hard to break loose .. i use an in-pack gun and let it spin a few min then tap it back and forth til its free

[Waverider969]

So your talking about parts 3 and 4 in diagram above. So once I pull out the bolt those parts are gonna be stuck there and I won't b able to get them loose easy? Should I order a set now in preparation for a battle that might tear apart the bushings?

the bolt usually is rusted to sleeve (#3)... yes order bushings & sleeves .. you can find a kit with everything all together

[93yellowclubcar]

Originally Posted by crash test dummy

the bolt usually is rusted to sleeve (#3)... yes order bushings & sleeves .. you can find a kit with everything all together

DEFINITELY go with the new sleeve and bushing kit! You'll want new bolts and nuts as well, as the sleeve will very likely be rusted onto the old bolt like CTD mentioned. A new lift deserves all new hardware. IMO getting these bolts out is the hardest part of installing a lift on a CC.

[Waverider969]

Cool thanks guys!! If the removal becomes difficult what are my options to get things moving on that part. Ill try the spin the bolt method mentioned above but what else you guys do to make things easier on that part of the removal?