36 volt bulbs V/S voltage reducer

[Chris 195 7/8 B&C]

Thinking of ordering 36 volt bulbs rather than using a voltage reducer. I don't think I will have much need for other 12 volt accessories unless I install a winch. The cart is 98% used for hunting. So for all you fellas with experience tell me what you think.

[Gale Hawkins]

Our head/tail lights upgrade was just tapped across two batteries which are not final output batteries.

Today our 36v BatteryMINDer charger/conditioner arrived and a free battery monitor came with it BUT for 12 volts. Since our cart does not have the battery voltmeter I just connected it at the same points where the lighting taps off of the battery bank and it worked fine.

When the green light drops out I will use a volt meter to check the total bank voltage and see how well that 12v sample represents the entire bank.e

A winch however would be quite a demand to address.

[Chris 195 7/8 B&C]

I don't want to just go across two batteries because I want them all to be drained and charged at the same rate. I agree a winch would be quite demanding when and if you needed it and I'm sure I would put a heavy voltage reducer on to cover that. I am going to install a digital battery meter to monitor my batteries.

[wizardket]

I just hooked up my automotive diagnostic amp meter to a fully charged 12v battery and tested my new light kit I just got. Headlights & taillights draw around 4 amps, 6 amps when the break lights are on.

[Gale Hawkins]

Originally Posted by Chris 195 7/8 B&C

I don't want to just go across two batteries because I want them all to be drained and charged at the same rate. I agree a winch would be quite demanding when and if you needed it and I'm sure I would put a heavy voltage reducer on to cover that. I am going to install a digital battery meter to monitor my batteries.

Chris draw you a diagram of your battery bank and the points where you could tap to get 12v for your headlights. When cart is charging I do not have my head lights burning because I am park so all 6 will by default charge at the same rate 'assuming' they that they are all healthy batteries. When in use your diagram will show current is flowing from all 6 batteries which I assume based on experience they are all trying to become equal in voltage which in my way of thinking will smooth out the 4 amp draw in your headlight test.

Yes that is a 4 amp drain on the batteries but that will be the case either way.

How does does a 36v to 12v reducer work? Where does the unwanted 24 volts go?

http://www.powerstream.com/dc48.htm

Chris it looks like using a converter/reducer (not sure which term is correct in this case) on a golf cart set-up to run head lights would just be a drain on your battery/cart speed with NO gains of any kind?

Wasting the 24/36 volts from a 36v/48v bank may not be an issue on that tow motor with a 2000 pound battery so you can have a radio but would that be good for a cart if speed or range was important?

[wizardket]

How does does a 36v to 12v reducer work? Where does the unwanted 24 volts go?

A voltage reducer is not a big resistor! It works just like the power supply on your computer or cell phone. Some differences due to DC but that is engineering. If you need 9 amps @ 12v it will draw a little over 3 amps on the 36v side. The other 24v disappear like magic.

[Gale Hawkins]

Originally Posted by wizardket

A voltage reducer is not a big resistor! It works just like the power supply on your computer or cell phone. Some differences due to DC but that is engineering. If you need 9 amps @ 12v it will draw a little over 3 amps on the 36v side. The other 24v disappear like magic.

Are you calling electric heaters magic?

http://www.powerstream.com/dc48.htm

Did you see this link that I added above. It is one huge heat sink. The ones in computer power supplies are just smaller.

Magic may work in Harry Potter movies but not so sure if that is the case with golf carts.

If 24/36/48 to 12 voltage reducers get warm or hot you know where the EXTRA voltage got DROPPED.

[dougmcp]

Originally Posted by Chris 195 7/8 B&C

I don't want to just go across two batteries because I want them all to be drained and charged at the same rate.

How many lights are you running?
The amperage draw is generally so little it is a non-issue, 6 amps vs 100 amps + for the motor.
My headlights, taillights, horn, signals etc had been wired across 2 batteries for the last 10 years. The Trojans were dated 02/04 and still tested 90%.

[Chris 195 7/8 B&C]

Anybody ever use 36 volt bulbs?

[dougmcp]

You could use them if you like, don't forget to fuse them. They are available on line, buy spares as the local auto supply stores won't carry them.