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Electric EZGO Electric EZ GO Marathon, Medalist, TXT and RXV.



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Old 01-29-2011, 12:00 PM   #11
Mickbee
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Default Re: EZ-GO TXT Motor removal question

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Originally Posted by wizardket View Post
I am building mine at 36v for now and got a kit from Scottyb (Thanks Scotty) with the Logisystem 480 amp controller. I will build it and drive it a while before I add the other 2 batteries in the bag well. The LGS can take 36-48v and I will just wire the control circuit to stay 36v and not have to replace my nice new HD solenoid.

Also from what I have seen, that charge receptacle is costly. I have heard it suggested that you just change the end on the new charger. Myself, I am going for an onboard charger.
I'm interested to here how your onboard charger setup works out.

Did you swap your motor? If so, what was your technique?

I like Gornoman's method. However... I'm looking at the time and labor to remove my rear seat and it may be less of a pain to go from below. I'm going to look at the under-seat storage panel again before turning a wrench. Maybe I'l get lucky. However, this cart has been resistant to change and making me earn my fun.

It s so much easier to work on Vettes than a cart in my opinion. Another story for another day.

Thanks!!
Steve
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Old 01-29-2011, 12:41 PM   #12
wizardket
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Default Re: EZ-GO TXT Motor removal question

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Originally Posted by Mickbee View Post
Did you swap your motor? If so, what was your technique?
I have a stock 36v series motor. It will take the increase to 48v and give about a 25% increase in speed. I also have a 480 amp controller for a large increase in torque.

As Scotty said earlier, voltage=speed, amps=torque.
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Old 01-30-2011, 04:14 PM   #13
gornoman
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Default Re: EZ-GO TXT Motor removal question

All I removed on my motor swap was the rear seat platform. All the heavy steel structure remained on the cart. The platform is held on by 4 nuts, which I replaced with SS wingnuts and lock washers. This makes servicing the bagwell battery MUCH easier.
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Old 01-30-2011, 06:13 PM   #14
Mickbee
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Default Re: EZ-GO TXT Motor removal question

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Originally Posted by gornoman View Post
All I removed on my motor swap was the rear seat platform. All the heavy steel structure remained on the cart. The platform is held on by 4 nuts, which I replaced with SS wingnuts and lock washers. This makes servicing the bagwell battery MUCH easier.
Excellent idea!! I doubt this will be the last time I'll be in there.
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Old 01-30-2011, 06:41 PM   #15
kmartz
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Default Re: EZ-GO TXT Motor removal question

To do a motor swap I used two ratchet straps around the motor and the frame on the cart. This left my hands free to loosen bolts. Once all the bolts were free I jiggled/coaxed the motor sideways and it remained suspended by the straps. I hope this description is good enough to create a visual.
Kyle
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Old 01-31-2011, 12:46 PM   #16
Mickbee
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Default Re: EZ-GO TXT Motor removal question

Quote:
Originally Posted by kmartz View Post
To do a motor swap I used two ratchet straps around the motor and the frame on the cart. This left my hands free to loosen bolts. Once all the bolts were free I jiggled/coaxed the motor sideways and it remained suspended by the straps. I hope this description is good enough to create a visual.
Kyle
Perfect! thanks
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Old 02-10-2011, 08:17 AM   #17
Mickbee
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Default Re: EZ-GO TXT Motor removal question

Quick update:

Hi All,
Thanks for the advise. I completed the motor, controller, and HD FR switch this weekend.

Here is how I removed the motor:

- Upbolted the attaching bolts
- Places a 2x4 (front to rear) on top of the axle with approx 3" hanging over the front of the axle
- Placed a jack stand under the front part of the 2x4, to keep it from acting as a catapult if the motor shifted forward
- Places a floor jack under the rear end of the 2x4
- jacked up the 2x4 to make it level on the axle
- removed the motor form the spline (motor rested perfectly on the 2x4
- SLOWLY lowered the floor jack allowing the motor to slide out the rear underside of the cart

To install I reversed the process.

It went very smooth and quick.

My new motor is 2+" longer than the original so I had to unbolt the driver's side rear shock to install the motor on the splines. Once on the splines, there was approx 1/4" - 1/2" of space between the motor and shock.

The motor/controller install ent very well and the motor has a ton of torque. It pulled the front wheels of the ground when I gave it a little blip form a dead stop.

Next step is I need to check my battery pack. I don't believe the are up to the challenge of the added HP and Amp requirements... I need to do a bunch of research here for the best next steps.

Prior to the install I ran 17 mph with a people load of 525. After 16... I have additional stats too if interested.



again thanks!!

Steve

P.S. I have a brand new Jake's Spindle lift and a bunch of other goodies I'd like to sell. How long do I need to wait before I can list items in the "for sale" section?
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