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04-01-2008, 10:07 AM | #1 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 11
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Need a little Help!!
I know I am dumb but could someone please help me get this primary sheave off. Do you brace the primary from spinning when you have a socket on the bolt? I don't want to tear it up?Buy the way I am trying to replace the seals.
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04-01-2008, 10:20 AM | #2 |
Admin/Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 18,010
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Re: Need a little Help!!
Yes, stop it from turning. You may need a puller to remove the clutch.
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Ron
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04-01-2008, 11:07 AM | #3 | |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: KY
Posts: 45
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Re: Need a little Help!!
Quote:
The only dumb questions are the ones we are not asking. You are in the right place to seek advice. These guys and gals are always glad to advise |
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04-01-2008, 11:45 AM | #4 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 11
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Re: Need a little Help!!
Thanks,
I found out the right tools I need. I will take some pics , it may help someone replace oil seal on a old G1. |
04-01-2008, 07:12 PM | #5 |
Sometime's............
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Tacoma Washington
Posts: 11,868
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Re: Need a little Help!!
No dumb questions here. I started to post earlier and got called away. Pry back the retainer (If you have air tools the bolt will come right out- counterclockwise) If n air..you can swedge a 2x4 between the fram and clutch. Now the outer sheave will slide off. Now there will be a circlip and big washer (they call it a cam) then the sliding sheave and if your car is "stock" a spring with a special retainer/washer at the engine side of the spring. There will also be a "collar with a bearing" that is fitted to the "fixed sheave" may come off may not. Now to get the fixed sheave off you'll need a "special puller", the fixed sheave has threads at the (internal outer edge) and the puller is long enough to "force" the fixed sheave off the "tapered "crankshaft end. An air (impact) tool work well hear also. If you can get the fixed sheave off now comes the oil pump gear housing (2-10mm head bolts (maybe 3-cant remeber right now) and 1-12mm head bolt . Just "tap" the gear housing to loosen it (it has dowel pins) that 2 bolts go thru. Get the old crank seal out. Grease the lip of the new seal and reverse the steps. Make shure to grease the bushings on the floating flange so it can move in and out easily. The drivers side crank seal normally goes bad first. Replace that one ..if the car runs fine you may or may not want to "tackle" the "flywheel" side. PS-I always take the gas tank out for better acsess. Good luck Dave
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