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Electric Club Car Electric DS, and Precedent golf cars |
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04-19-2016, 01:58 PM | #1 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 17
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Speedometer/tachometer
I am looking to see if there is a way to hook up a speedometer to my 48v club car. I am making it into a classic car and would like to put a speedometer in a cluster. Also would like a tachometer but I think that might not be able to do. Any suggestions I couldn't find anything. Thanks
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04-19-2016, 02:19 PM | #2 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Rio Verde, Az
Posts: 7,125
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Re: Speedometer/tachometer
You have several options for a speedometer. The nicest I have seen is a GPS speedometer designed for carts that goes up to about 35MPH. They are not cheap though. Another option is a Bike speedometer which is cheap and not very good looking. I built my own that uses the cart's speed sensor as the input and it has an LCD display. That is only an option if you are handy with electronics and small processors like Arduino.
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04-19-2016, 02:30 PM | #3 |
Getting Wild
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: MN
Posts: 76
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Re: Speedometer/tachometer
I will make an interface for you, if it has the standard 3p tach plug.
Here are a couple I've made. The round analog gauge has a pot adjustment for setting speed or rpm. The digital is field programmed to display speed or rpms. When used for speedometer, I blackout all but middle two digits to read 0-99mph. Make them primarily for use with Magic Magnet, but works stand alone. |
04-21-2016, 08:08 AM | #4 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 17
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That's all for the replies. You got me on the right direction. I never thought about the tach plug off the motor. I am very handy with electronics so it shouldn't be a problem.
Does anyone know what each wire actually sends for data? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
04-21-2016, 08:22 AM | #5 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 9,329
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Re: Speedometer/tachometer
The green wire is the output, 0-5v pulse.
There are 4 pulses per motor revolution. The differential has a 12.315:1 ratio (12.315 motor revolutions per wheel turn) for your speedometer math. |
04-21-2016, 09:03 AM | #6 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Rio Verde, Az
Posts: 7,125
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Re: Speedometer/tachometer
The speed sensor is a transistor switch that is active low. The other two wires are 5V and ground (at least on my Yamaha cart) You need to use an opto-isolator to connect to the sensor to avoid any kind of ground connection with the controller. I connected the diode input to the opto between the +5 and the switch signal with an appropriate series resistor.
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04-21-2016, 09:29 AM | #7 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 9,329
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Re: Speedometer/tachometer
The power supply on the Club Car Precedent speed sensor (red wire) is +15v.
I have my Atmel ATtiny85 directly connected to the green wire for 2 years without issues. The input load of a digital port will not cause any issues with the signal sent to the controller. |
04-21-2016, 09:54 AM | #8 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Rio Verde, Az
Posts: 7,125
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Re: Speedometer/tachometer
You can do direct connect - but only if there are no other grounds. In my case there are a bunch since I am also monitoring all of my Lithium Cells. You also need to reduce that voltage if it's 15V. My Yamaha sensor runs on +5V. Since these sensors are open collector, they can run on different voltages determined by the controller.
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04-21-2016, 11:00 AM | #9 | |
Getting Wild
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: MN
Posts: 76
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Re: Speedometer/tachometer
Quote:
That's why I don't suggest connecting to tach output unless you understand this. So as not to load the hall effect transistor several k-ohm in series with input led will still drive ok. Automotive tachs will run as-is (8cyl) if isolated optically or powered with isolated 12v converter. Either of these work depending if you need inverted signal. |
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04-21-2016, 11:23 AM | #10 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Rio Verde, Az
Posts: 7,125
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Re: Speedometer/tachometer
It is much better to use the second schematic (+ supply to resistor, signal to diode cathode) because the transistor switch pulls low in most of these sensors. If you do the first one, you load down the signal when the transistor switch is off. I set my resistor to pull about 10mA through the photodiode. I checked the sensor high and low voltage before and after connecting my opto isolator and it was the same. (It won't be if you wire it like the first schematic)
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