Battery question

[gdr3151]

Can someone explain exactly how to check my voltage, using a digital multi-meter , what should the dial be set to as well as the probes ? I have the dial set to 9V and the black lead in the -com jack and the red lead in the thejack to the right of it .

[dougmcp]

No need to disconnect the batteries.
Make sure the dig meter is set on DC volts not AC, 9v setting is good for this test.
The black lead goes on the negative post of 1 battery (-).
The red lead goes on the positive post of the same battery (+).
Test the batteries one at a time and post your results.
A fully charged battery should be around 6.4v
A completely dead battery is 5.4v
Here's a chart to look at when you get your results:

[gdr3151]

Next problem, I charged the batteries overnight and they are all reading around 6.1 or 6.2 volts per battery when I pushed the accelerator it started to move but almost instantly began to shudder both in forward and reverse
where should i go from here?

[OLD MEC]

( "At about 6.1-6.2 after charging over night" ) you are still less than 60% charged which is not usable yet? What reading did you get with the one battery that earlier in your first post showed only 3.4 while the others showed 6.0? I think you could charge for days without bringing the voltage to 6.37 or above because of the ONE weak battery all you really doing is boiling acid from your batterys?.

[gdr3151]

5.4 with a specific gravity of 1.50 . I think the batteries are shot.

[dougmcp]

Originally Posted by gdr3151

5.4 with a specific gravity of 1.50 . I think the batteries are shot.

I agree. Are you sure about the SG at 1.50? Or is it 1.05?

[gdr3151]

Gentleman, heres where Im at after a good charging , !st time I left the key on Im not sure if that made a difference or not but iI cleaned all the cable good and charged them again an d all batteries read 6.3 or 6.4 except 1 which is 4.4 , next I lifted the rear end up and with the charger connected I pushed the accelerator and the passenger side tire spun great but driver side did nt , should it have and do you think I could get by on maybe 1 new or used battery. Also while in reverse the beeper was beeping until I pushed the accelerator (?)and it stopped,any thoughts on all this .

Also will check the specific gravity again.



P.S - I appreciate all the help I guess you can tell all this is new to me. ?

[OLD MEC]

You have confirmed that "ONE BATTERY" at 4.4 is SHOT and needs replacing.
Now comes the problem
#1- do I replace only the one battery--
A- with new battery
B-with a used battery
A= new battery will charge at different rate and end up boiling itself to death while the charger tries to bring old batterys up to full charged?
B= used battery may give you a few more months use before one or more of your existing batterys goes bad and you are right back where you were? In the mean time you are putting lower voltage to motor and controls that could cause possible early break downs possibly costing more than a set of batterys?
GOOD LUCK IN WHAT YOU DESIDE TO DO.
AS to one wheel turning when another isnt is NORMAL. This allows the wheels to turn at different speeds while turning corners.
Your reverse beeper may have stopped working because of you bad battery acting like a water hose with a kink not letting much water through.
REMEMBER THAT A BATTERY PACK IS ONLY AS GOOD AS ITS WORST BATTERY.

[tonyton]

When, not if, you decide to buy new batteries, shop locally. Trojan batteires are, arguably, the best on the market. Unfortunately, they are one of the highest $. There are many brands and prices vary a lot. Try to find ones that have a 2-3 year (or more) warrenty. Exchange the cores, they are about 12. each!
Battery weight and hazmat charges bring shipping rates to unreasonable $$$$!
Good Luck Shopping! (sooner or later)

Dougmcp, Nice chart, thanks.....