Flux Capacitor

[cgtech]

The "single" diode that could handle the amperage would be quite expensive. It would have to handle every amp your motor was eating. The controller makers "block" with many smaller diodes (I reclaim them out of failed controllers for my own projects). Every part has a "max voltage" & "max amperage" (both of those should be used at around 75% of their max in situations that aren't totally "experimental"). No one is saying it can't be done (it has been done), but to do it safely is a different story. Experimental is something anyone is free to do, and experiments are somewhat well known for eating parts. How much risk are you willing to expose your parts to?. I fried my stock 36v marathon controller by running it on straight 48v, I did it just to see, I already had a old used gen1 axe waiting to replace it. I wasn't risking anything I could care if I lost. It lasted about a month.

Maybe harvest a bunch of diodes from dead 48v controllers.

[Newbuggyboy]

Originally Posted by cgtech

The "single" diode that could handle the amperage would be quite expensive. It would have to handle every amp your motor was eating. The controller makers "block" with many smaller diodes (I reclaim them out of failed controllers for my own projects). Every part has a "max voltage" & "max amperage" (both of those should be used at around 75% of their max in situations that aren't totally "experimental"). No one is saying it can't be done (it has been done), but to do it safely is a different story. Experimental is something anyone is free to do, and experiments are somewhat well known for eating parts. How much risk are you willing to expose your parts to?. I fried my stock 36v marathon controller by running it on straight 48v, I did it just to see, I already had a old used gen1 axe waiting to replace it. I wasn't risking anything I could care if I lost. It lasted about a month.

Maybe harvest a bunch of diodes from dead 48v controllers.

Thanks.

Would we want four diodes? One on each A1, S1, A2, S2. And the diode used in the video was less than $40.

I'm no electrical engineer. I've had to ask even the simplest electrical questions here. I'm just overthinking that crazy video.

[BobBoyce]

Originally Posted by Newbuggyboy

Thanks.

Would we want four diodes? One on each A1, S1, A2, S2. And the diode used in the video was less than $40.

I'm no electrical engineer. I've had to ask even the simplest electrical questions here. I'm just overthinking that crazy video.

Only one device does this... A Zener diode, with a clampling voltage within the specs of the controllers max voltage rating. Use it as a crowbar across the controller output. One with the current rating to handle the job, or a dozen with a tenth of the rating (less desirable because actual crowbar voltages will vary a tad and the first one to crowbar will fry, then the next, and so on) can protect the controller. They are hugely expensive in that power rating, could cost you thousands of $ to protect a controller worth hundreds. A common heavy duty zener is 5 watts, you'll need one rated at several Kilowatts! The reason commercial controller manufacturers do not put them in controllers. They just cost too much. The fly/drive by wire controllers that I designed for our military had these crowbars built in, but they cost our government tens of thousands of $ each. You asked.

[Newbuggyboy]

Ok. I here you 2 respected guys and others. The internet is great source of truth, but also things to be cautious of.

The gentleman in the video explains the cost involved in a 36V to 48V conversion. His cost estimate is @$1,500. But wait, put that checkbook away. He shows a low cost solution. 2 batteries, 2 battery boxes, a solenoid, a switch, some wiring and a the magic diode. All for @$300. So $1,500 vs $300. Why wouldn't those of us with zero knowledge say "Alex I'll take speed upgrade for 300?"

Like I mentioned above this was a consideration after I got everything else up and working properly. That in itself is a monumental task for me. Sometimes planning/thinking allows for preparing. I guess for now I'm ok with having an ezgo marathan in the future. Instead of a delorean. But I just thought if I'm going to travel in the future "The way I see it, if you're going to build a time machine into a car, why not do it with some style."

[BobBoyce]

Originally Posted by Newbuggyboy

Ok. I here you 2 respected guys and others. The internet is great source of truth, but also things to be cautious of.

The gentleman in the video explains the cost involved in a 36V to 48V conversion. His cost estimate is @$1,500. But wait, put that checkbook away. He shows a low cost solution. 2 batteries, 2 battery boxes, a solenoid, a switch, some wiring and a the magic diode. All for @$300. So $1,500 vs $300. Why wouldn't those of us with zero knowledge say "Alex I'll take speed upgrade for 300?"

Like I mentioned above this was a consideration after I got everything else up and working properly. That in itself is a monumental task for me. Sometimes planning/thinking allows for preparing. I guess for now I'm ok with having an ezgo marathan in the future. Instead of a delorean. But I just thought if I'm going to travel in the future "The way I see it, if you're going to build a time machine into a car, why not do it with some style."

Follow the video. And above all else, have fun and be safe. You might want to invest in a fire extinguisher for when the controller lets out its magic smoke.

[Newbuggyboy]

Originally Posted by BobBoyce

Follow the video. And above all else, have fun and be safe. You might want to invest in a fire extinguisher for when the controller lets out its magic smoke.

Bob I always want to be safe. And having fun is what golf carts are to me.

You know my 2five and it is hands down awesome! When I bought my 2010 RXV I went against the conventional wisdom on the controller situation. And you informed me about harness issues also. I did that RXV because i didn't need it to go 35+mph. It runs fast enough to get my lazy rear end to the grocery store, etc.. My son, wife, neighbors, and several buyers remarked at how really nice it looks and runs. It runs 17-18 mph and actually hits that top speed while climbing hills. On level it runs between 16.9 and 17.2 mph. Stock.

Just give me a chance to finish that Marathon. I think it will be another head turner. Just like my previous 2. My son is already LOL at it. He has seen my prototype wrap, decals, etc...

I think everyone here is similar to me. I know I just want to make good decisions and learn from other people's experience. Rather than the school of hard knox.

You and I have talked a lot and you are a site mentor. And you should also remember I told you I was good with the speed we set in my 2five. Even though you said it can do more. I'm not just speed. Alfalfa once said "things of beauty, grace and speed should be refereed to in the feminine gender." I believe he learned that from his personal golf cart!

Bob always like to hear from you. And others here as well.

[BobBoyce]

Yuppirs! I have one of those carts as well, no controller. I would wire it for dragster mode. Just parallel the armature and stator, then use a reversing contactor and a rocker switch for FNR. I used to use solenoids triggered by the wiper board to engage a solenoid at each step to save wear and tear on the wiper contacts. With a 24 volt battery bank, it'll run like it's on 48 volts. We did a drag cart once that had a boost switch, at WOT you flip the switch and it would weaken the field to 12V and turn that series motor into a pseudo-SepEx. It was great for overtaking and passing the leader. We never told them how we were doing it. All sorts of fun can be had by thinking outside of the box.