EZGO TXT Installing 36V-12V reducer on off

[sailfishgolfer]

EZGO TXT Installing 36V-12V reducer on off 1997 EZGO TXT; 36 V.

I DO NOT have a run/tow switch so it must be a "Series" TXT :

Installing a Reliance 36V ->12V reducer for accessories. It appears to be very similar to the same DC Coverter that ScottyB has listed. The unit has 2 - 12V leads; 1 is Red, the other Blue. The Red is "switched" using the Green wire. The Blue is to be used for a constant low voltage draw IE radio settings etc.

After a great deal effort I was able to access the back of KEY SWITCH. Mine is a 3 position (Off, On, Lights). I am including pics below. The back of the Switch has the following markings: "l", "B1", "I", and by process of elimination "B" (it is NOT stamped). See diagram from my manual (which sucks btw) I do not have a "state of charge" meter (yet). This is the only diagrma that matches my switch.

First: The max Voltage at the switch is 12V on spade terminal "B1" this is a White Wire in my case. Lights connect to "L" which is a paired set of WHITE wires. "I" has a Blue wire and the unmarked "B" terminal has a Green wire.

According to this installation instruction with the 36V -> 12V DC reducer, it says to connect the GREEN wire to the Switch were there is 36V when turned on.

Sooo... any suggestions on how to make the new DC Voltage reducer operate when the key is to the "ON" position?

The DC reducer does work. I have wired the terminal block with the 12V BLUE wire. All accessories wired to terminal block work fine.

I would like the ability to "turn off" the DC Reducer when cart switch Key is "OFF" Any suggestions?

[orangeman6]

Can you post a picture of the wiring diagram for the reducer? Are you just trying to switch the 12v output, or are you trying to turn the reducer itself off with the key?

Check out the attached series wiring diagram. The pins on the key switch that originally had blue/white wires were for the lights. 12v in and out with the key in the third position. The blue wire supplied the switch with 36v but was only hit when either f or r were selected. It wouldn’t be where you’d want to get 36v in for the reducer. It’d go off for a blink every time you changed directions.

Hope this helps some.

[JohnnieB]

The tricky part of using the switched 36V output at the keyswitch to power the remote on feature of a voltage reducer is that the only time there is 36V to the keyswitch (on the blue wire that connects to the "I" terminal) is when the F/R selector is in either F or R. Specifically, MS-2's contacts have to be closed to forward 36V from the reed switch to the keyswitch. See attached diagram with 36V to solenoid coil highlighted.

Put cart in forward (or reverse) and there ought be 36V on the blue wire, which will be forwarded to the green wire when the key is ON. Attach the voltage reducer's green wire to the same terminal that has the green wire from the cart's wiring harness on it and the reducer will shut off when the key is OFF or the F/R lever in in neutral.

Then connect the Red wire from the reducer to your 12V distribution block.

The blue wire from the reducer is going to have 12V on it as long as the reducer is connected to the battery pack.

[sailfishgolfer]

IMG_7065_2.jpg

[sailfishgolfer]

here you go.

Thank you both for the suggestions. Is there a better way to attach the DC Converter GREEN wire to a "switched" 36V source that would be kept on when key is on?

Your suggestions would work for the most part as the only time I can see something turning on-off-on would be at night using lights, when going from reverse to froward or vice verse... etc.

Also, I am going to add a "state of charge" meter....should it too be hooked up to the same Green wire on the switch? ie as shown in the wiring Diagram attached on original post?

Thank you very much for the help!!!

[orangeman6]

Ok, it does have the 5th wire, which is good. I thought that was what you were taking about.
Those instructions are kinda generic. The series cart only has power at the key switch when your are in either forward or reverse. It looses it for a second when you switch between the two. Look at what Johnnieb posted, and look at the diagram. You can trace the 36v from the reed switch through ms2, and then to the key switch.
A lot of guys just run a separate switch, like a rocker, toggle, whatever. Personally, I like having the reducer independent of the key because I often have the cart parked while I’m listening to music or using the lights. I don’t like the idea that the dog, a kid, etc can accidentally cause the cart to move.
Johnnieb might have other ideas.

[sailfishgolfer]

Thanks again....I use it strictly for golf..or running around the neighborhood etc. No kids to mess with it.

Also, here is a wiring diagram for a "state of charge" meter that I have from carts unlimited.. It's saying to connect the meters "switch" leg to the "I" terminal (in my case the blue wire).

If I am understanding correctly...it would be best to attach the DC Reducer & the Battery Meter to the key switch GREEN wire spade ("B" terminal of switch) ....that way these 2 items will only draw power when key is in the "ON" position?

[orangeman6]

Site keeps glitching on me. It looks like my last post didn’t go through.

You can verify with your dvm set to continuity to see which pins in the key connect at which key positions.
Here’s what I have:
I, B in the second key position.
B1, L in the third.

But again, there’s no power on the blue wire when the cart is in neutral, so if you use that for the trigger wire, your reducer will turn off for a second with each direction change. I’d run 36v from pack + to B and hook the trigger wire of the reducer to I, if you don’t want to run a separate switch. That way the reducer will come on when the key is in the 3rd position. But if you do that, how will you control the lights? You’d need a separate switch from the 12v out of the reducer to the lights. Again, it’s that or have everything go off when the cart hits neutral.

[JohnnieB]

I prefer connecting DVM type battery meters directly to the battery pack's main + & - terminals instead of the voltage going through two or three sets of switch contacts, a bunch of crimped on spade terminals and several feet of 18ga wire.

With little exception, the DVM battery meter I got from Scotty has been on constantly for the last 9 years and is still going strong. It only draws a few milliamps and I can see what the pack voltage is every time I walk by the cart without having to do anything like turn on the key.

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Other than saving a couple feet of wire, I can see no reason why EZGO put the F/R switch before the keyswitch in their Series, DCS and PDS carts, and maybe other drives. I also dislike the fact that the series drive controller doesn't power up until the pedal is pressed. If I had a series drive, I'd probably rewire it so the keyswitch was before the MS-2 on the F/R switch assembly and the controller power up when the key was turned on.

[sailfishgolfer]

To all of you THANKS for the input! All done and rewired - working great! I installed the Voltage reducer on an "L" flange and have a covered breaker panel for accessories mounted on rear wheel hub. Wired the voltage meter direct to the batteries.


I also upgraded the front Halogen bulbs in light bar to LED's.

My sincere appreciation!