diagnosis no go

[northwestfarmtn]

Well, it's sure cold outside but I just went out and disconnected the battery negative and positive F/r switch bumped into middle, I tested for continuity at the posts on the motor. I had continuity between the 2 posts closest to the back of the motor but not between the other 2 posts I am gonna go double check but does that mean expensive repairs??? never mind my meter came unplugged got continuity tween both sets like it should with f/r fully engaged i seem to have continuity tween all posts on motor... I am thinking there is malfunction at fr switch.... what happens when fr gets too hot?

[northwestfarmtn]

not sure where to go next... i.t.s working solenoid working controller working motor good next is pulling wires and checking each, reed switch bypassed years ago

[scottyb]

When the F&R gets overloaded the studs get hot. When the F&R studs get hot they soften up the F&R housing. When the F&R housing is softened up the studs sink. When the studs sink they pull away from the rotary cam. When they pull away from the rotary cam the amperage arcs to make contact. When the amperage arcs to make contact the studs get even hotter. When the studs get even hotter .......... the studs get even hotter they sink more and contact is completely lost. The cart stops and you think there is something wrong with your motor

[northwestfarmtn]

Originally Posted by scottyb

When the F&R gets overloaded the studs get hot. When the F&R studs get hot they soften up the F&R housing. When the F&R housing is softened up the studs sink. When the studs sink they pull away from the rotary cam. When they pull away from the rotary cam the amperage arcs to make contact. When the amperage arcs to make contact the studs get even hotter. When the studs get even hotter .......... the studs get even hotter they sink more and contact is completely lost. The cart stops and you think there is something wrong with your motor

Oh Mr. B I pulled that f&r switch out and I found a slight mess. all contacts were being made but I did find one that started to melts through not all the way but just enough to make it wiggle when you try to wiggle it. then there was another stud on the other part that I am going to call the block(the part that rotates)and it was discolored like it got too hot and the wire from the controller where attached to the f&r switch was discolored and hard for about 3 inches up the wire.... Whats that sound like to you??? enough to make a no go.... oh and your probably going to get an order for a heavy duty f&r switch soon and a set of 4ga wires if I can talk my wife into it.
Any chance I can measure that wire and just have you send that 1 with the new switch What do you think

[northwestfarmtn]

I don't think so the f&r although shows signs of heating up is still conductive and making good contact when the sun comes up I will check the 2 wires from those discolored terminals I think its a2 and s1 one goes to the controller and one to the motor..... whatever makes forward those 2 wires..... I think specifically the a2 wire because it was the 1 that started to melt and I think the power comming in from the controller. I have no forward or reverse so It must be between the controller and f&r that it is lost right....

[scottyb]

I think you can swap the S1 and S2 wires at the F&R and if the cart then doesn't go in the previously good direction but travels in the direction it previously would not - then you have to conclude the F&R is garbage simple test. GL
And yes I make singles...
You should consider a superduty reversing contactor kit for a few dollars more than another rotary type F&R switch.

[northwestfarmtn]

super duty reversing contactor

It is 14 degrees out there today but when I was walking past to go to the green house I reached down and the S1 wire going back to the motor feels hard through most of it the A2 feels hard for a few inches, would that stop me from going if the wires got fried? I would hate to have to put a new f&r on it . the HD F&R in there is less than a year old

[northwestfarmtn]

FOUND IT!

The resistor on the solenoid was tricking me.... I took that resistor off then put my meter on the controller side of the solenoid and when I hit the pedal it clicked but I only got .3 volts out of it...... I was reading power the resistor was carrying over...

[northwestfarmtn]

Think I need a nap. I have 36.5 volts from M- then it increases to almost full pack voltage when I depress the pedal??? this says I should be at 0 and increase t full voltage

CHECKING CONTROLLER OUTPUT Connect (-) probe to M- terminal.
Connect (+) probe to B+ terminal.
The reading should indicate approx. 0 volts.
Slowly depress accelerator pedal.
The reading should show the voltage increasing to battery voltage when fully depressed. If the voltage is at or near battery voltage and the motor is not turning, then the problem lies in either the forward/reverse switch, the wiring, or the motor.
If the voltage increases by a few volts and then stops changing while the pedal is being depressed, remove the orange wire at the "Reverse Micro switch".
If the voltage is not at or near battery voltage, replace the controller.
If battery voltage is present, the problem lies in the reverse circuit.
Re-connect the orange wire.

[yurtle]

Originally Posted by northwestfarmtn

super duty reversing contactor

It is 14 degrees out there today but when I was walking past to go to the green house I reached down and the S1 wire going back to the motor feels hard through most of it the A2 feels hard for a few inches, would that stop me from going if the wires got fried? I would hate to have to put a new f&r on it . the HD F&R in there is less than a year old

A cable that feels hard "could" have gotten hot enough to weld the small copper strands into a larger, more rigid strand. I've done that before on smaller automotive wiring, but the insulation was gone at that point. While it may pass current, I'd replace it, as he cable has exceeded what it was designed for. In my case, the copper didn't even look like copper anymore and was probably oxidized, and I'm sure had reduced current carrying capacity, which means more heat...

Mine was brittle as well, so you may have a break somewhere in one of the two cables, but my guess is the FNR is the main culprit.

I'd replace anything that got overheated.