1997 CC DS series Hunting Cart - D&D motor toast!

[huthut]

My 1997 Club car DS series Hunting Cart was hauling a deer out of the woods at relatively slow speeds (so pretty high amps I am guessing). The cart suddenly would not go - luckily I was not far to camp and got it towed in. This cart has a lift as well as 20 inch tires, Heavy battery cable, D&D 170-002-0002 and Alltrx 4855 controller. Older batteries may last one more year and the throttle acceleration is jerky and has gotten worse

Finally got time to look it over and found the A1 post on the motor loose and burned looking. The cable that connected here also had the end break off at the post. I am guessing the motor is toast and hopefully the controller is still good. Do you think my controller would get toasted also?

Do you think this was the weak link (maybe loose cable connection) and under high amps it overheated? Did the motor fail internally? Can these motors get rebuilt?

Any guidance on what would be greatly appreciated. Probably time to do some other upgrades while in I have it in the shop for winter (potensiometer, F/R switch, new cables)

What is the best upgrade to smooth out the jerkiness? Who has the best motor for my existing controller? How can I test the Alltrax 4855 to see if it is good?

Sorry for all the questions - been reading these forums for awhile and it always provides great guidance. Thanks in advance for your help

[kgsc]

That post can be replaced. May have just been loose which would also cause jerkyness. There is a diagram floating around on how to test the motor and see if changing the post and cable will fix it.

Found it, go look at post 8 in this thread http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...eld-error.html

[huthut]

Thanks for the quick respone --That is good news! I will do some searching and see what my options are with replacing the post on the motor

[cgtech]

A1 post is brushes, that is the good news. A new set of brushes will include new posts for both "A" terminals. Insulators will need to be replaced on those terminals too. Any electric motor rebuilder (or yourself) can do these repairs. If the brush holder and armature is in good condition. I have limited experience with D&D motors, but the experience i have with them is not favorable. The last D&D i saw fail was due to the brush holder melting, and allowing the brushes to lean away from the armature (armature trashed, not worth rebuilding). The brush holder was made mainly of plastic. The fiberglass setup is not perfect either, but i would prefer those above plastic. I hope that not all D&D brush holders are based on plastic.

[huthut]

I have a local shop that rebuilds motors so I can have them take a look. Maybe I can do this myself, were would I order brushes from? If take the motor apart and posted pics would you be able to help me judge if it is worth rebuilding.

Anybody have suggestions on upgrading the potensiometer? and a recommended heavy cable upgrade kit?

[scottyb]

Fix it and sell it. The issue is not the motor but the application. That is a high speed motor and you need a high toque motor like the 402. Glad you found it. Good luck.

[caokgafamily]

New brush end cap from D&D is about $90.

Steve

[huthut]

Thanks for the insight on pricing -- I will pull the motor off later today and open it up. Hopefully, there will be no big surprises inside

[caokgafamily]

you may be able to just fix the wire end lug? As pointed out earlier it may have come loose. Steve

[caokgafamily]

I don't think your motor is toast. Fix wire lug and truck on!
But its also good to test everything, I fried a $600 D&D motor last Nov, when I called D&D they said send it in. I should have.
Steve