Txt series cart died, help!

[JwgreDeux]

Micro switches in fnr are clicking and fnr passed continuity test. Still trying to figure this out.

[Jkry2121]

Originally Posted by JwgreDeux

Micro switches in fnr are clicking and fnr passed continuity test. Still trying to figure this out.

Sounds to me like it can really only be the solenoid or the controller at this point. I mean burning smell also makes me believe controller or solenoid. Those are the two parts we are constantly replacing in TXTs

[JwgreDeux]

Tested the voltage at the solenoid and the battery side has a full 36 v but the opposite site bolt on the solenoid only has 28 v. Is the resistor the issue? Would it cause it not to move at all?

[JwgreDeux]

Additionally, on the s2 motor terminal with dmv touching it and the neg battery pack with pedal pushed I get full voltage reading. Still no movement.

[JwgreDeux]

Originally Posted by JwgreDeux

Tested the voltage at the solenoid and the battery side has a full 36 v but the opposite site bolt on the solenoid only has 28 v. Is the resistor the issue? Would it cause it not to move at all?

When retesting this, the opposite side of the solenoid does read full power when the power pedal is pushed down.

[JwgreDeux]

Tried the following test :

CHECKING CONTROLLER OUTPUT Connect (-) probe to M- terminal.
Connect (+) probe to B+ terminal.
The reading should indicate approx. 0 volts.
Slowly depress accelerator pedal.
The reading should show the voltage increasing to battery voltage when fully depressed. If the voltage is at or near battery voltage and the motor is not turning, then the problem lies in either the forward/reverse switch, the wiring, or the motor.
If the voltage increases by a few volts and then stops changing while the pedal is being depressed, remove the orange wire at the "Reverse Micro switch".
If the voltage is not at or near battery voltage, replace the controller.

Failed test. So consensus is need a new controller?

[JwgreDeux]

One last piece of information, when I took the controller off, I could here a tiny piece of something loose inside there rattling a bit as I turned it in my hand.

Going to get a new controller and see if that does the trick.

[scottyb]

Originally Posted by JwgreDeux

One last piece of information, when I took the controller off, I could here a tiny piece of something loose inside there rattling a bit as I turned it in my hand.

Going to get a new controller and see if that does the trick.

We call this the death rattle. A component has burnt off of the control board and is rattling around in the case. It's dead.

[JwgreDeux]

Originally Posted by scottyb

We call this the death rattle. A component has burnt off of the control board and is rattling around in the case. It's dead.

Installed new controller and still no movement. Solenoid was clicking and now nothing. Feel like I'm back at square one. Any tests to check the solenoid?

[Crawler487]

Yes to test the solenoid, use a normal multimeter set to ohms and when you press the pedal down and the solenoid clicks, check across the two large main posts on the solenoid to see if it is an open circuit. If the solenoid shows an open circuit then replace it, if not then we need to move onto checking the motor.