Triumph club car

[rifter]

I wouldn't go bigger on the Engine sprocket, puts more of the strain on your engine trans, look at Sprocket Specialties, they build sprockets for any app, they also make quick change sprockets you can change with out chain issues. I would run an idler/tensioner on the bottom side of the chain travel. You can run 4 or 5 extra links that way.

[Mrider7]

Well giving an update. Haven’t givin up (yet). Got the engine and all components from bike off. Engine is halfway mounted in the cart.... decided best to get all suspension components aligned and complete first. Getting all 3 donors torn apart took more time than I had planned.. a lot to it. Hope to be posting pics of motor complete in and suspension soon.

[rifter]

Sounds good!

[Mrider7]

Ok guys wondering if there are any tricks to finding true center on front end I basically built front end off of original frame off of the cart but I don’t want it tracking weird or am I over thinking this front end? Already cut cart frame as far back as possible to allow my front end to mount but every time I measure and adjust it looks a little off one way or the other.. with alignment front wheels to rear not sure of the best way to go about it besides measure and measure again. Trying to accomplish front and rear suspension suspension this week if I can. Thanks for any input.

[rifter]

http://longacreracing.com/userfiles/...t/Squaring.pdf

[rifter]

My explanation is a little more than you will need for your cart but basically the same. I start with a level both directions surface, run a tight line down the center to measure from about 3 inches off the surface, mount your chassis centered/leveled above your tight line then all your measurements come from the center tight line. Most can be seen from the pictures but I'll answer any questions to my ability

[Mrider7]

Thanks for that information I had center string but all for corners helped a lot. Feel like I’m not making much progress. Maybe over thinking the strength part but wanting to be certain it’s strong enough. Mounting steel to aluminum isn’t much fun. Basically lined the inner frame with steel to have spots to weld everything to. Sometimes it’s hard to not give up.i can see y so many don’t finish

[JRL]

I did similar. But, I scribed centers onto everything....cart, atv stubs, every cross member. When cutting the lower ATV tubes, that will give an absolute square of lower chassis members. That said, my original atv lower tubes are all beneath the cart and serve to strengthen and guard the front driveshaft. The ATV chassis also serves as a skid plate and is reinforced in a lightweight bridge beneath the cart. The lower atv frame rails, if not "dressed", will square up the ATV subassemblies. Most Atv frames are flat on the bottom so get it close, verify the centerlines, and it should be square if both cart and ATV frames are level, side to side and front to rear. You can remove all moveable suspension components when fabbing up the two frame connections. As often as not, ATV control arms are hammered and no longer square. Don't try to eyeball the project. Put a line and ruler to it. Once tacked in place, the rear section can be verified square be installing control arms and bearing/hub assemblies. The you can measure from a hub flange to any symmetric frame member.
I have no idea the manufacturing tolerances of a golf cart...[emoji849]

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[JRL]

That exvellent Falcon reminds me of an experience with a '64 Falcon Sprint body that I thought would make a cool left hand asphalt outlaw car body. Well after cutting the thing into myriad pieces, the unibody cowl was just too heavy and to too many diddly welds in the front door A posts. It was a neat looking but heavy thing, ended up using a '57 stovepipe body that was quite easy to lighten and clean up. That freaking Falcon had a frame... built into the firewall.
And Rifter...your shop is WAY TOO CLEAN! No beer cans...? I do see you wifes lawn mower. [emoji6]

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[rifter]

I'm not hijacking Mrider's thread, just staying with all subjects. We do alot of chassis work. This is our Lefthander chassis Florida Asphalt Modified.