G8 gear oil change

[Dirtroad]

Just changed the gear oil in my G8 but I'm a little confused as to how much oil should go back in. The owners manual says .85 quart but that doesn't seem like enough to me. I also read somewhere bolt #19 is the full level (pull the bolt out and fill until it runs out). I only poured in about half (or less) and oil started running out the "full level hole". So .85 qt should be more that 3/4 of the quart (unless my math is off). Should I just put bolt 19 back in and pour another 1/4 qt in the trans? Also, if I just pour the whole quart in will that cause any issues?

[cgtech]

If I pour a whole quart in there, will it harm anything? If oil coming out of every axle office is "not a problem", then itll be fine (dont do it). As far as correct level, if you have a lift kit, be sure the cart is jacked up enough to get the axle level again.

[J-ROB]

What CG said. I have an Allsports 7" lift on my G2. If you compare the swing arm angle of my cart to a stock cart, there is a major difference in how much of a slope those of us with big lifts are at. I put a floor jack under the rear crossmember of the swing arm and jack it up until my swing arm is level with the ground. Also, pull the rubber vent hose plug out and add in the new gear oil from there.

The first time I attempted to change my gear oil, I was only able to fit about .4qts into it before it came out of the full hole. I then grabbed the floor jack and lifted the rear of the swing arm until it was level and the remaining amount fit no problem.

Also, (as it seems you must have a lift due to the diff fill issue) I jack up my swing arm to level for oil changes as well, otherwise you don't get all of the oil out and when you pour in your new qt, you will now be over full and will likely be pumping the excess into your airbox which will soak into your filter and restrict your airflow causing either a loss of performance, or cause fuel air mixture differences that may affect how your cart runs.

For the oil change, get the cart warmed up (doesn't have to be all the way hot, just enough to get the oil flowing more easily). I always slide my drain pan under the cart and pull the drain plug with the cart on the ground. Once the oil is draining is when I start to lift the swing arm in the back up to level. it can be kinda sketchy to put any torque on a bolt with only a single lift point in the very center of the swing arm. Once the oil finishes draining, I thread the plug in finger tight and then set the cart back down on the ground to torque the oil drain plug. Make sure you use the copper washer or the drain plug can leak. Also the threads on the drain plug stop just short of the bolt head, if you don't use the copper washer and over tighten the drain plug, there are less threads engaged internally and you stand a chance of stripping the threads in the crankcase (ask me how I know). Copper washer, 21ft.lb. If you don't have a torque wrench, tighten it until snug and give it about another 1/8 of a turn.

[J-ROB]

I bought a pack of the copper washers from Amazon, it has various sizes which I have used for the drain plug and full level plug in the diff. A few of the other sizes I have used on various other lawn engines as well. Some of the sizes I'm not sure I will ever use, either way the kit was only $10.99 on amazon where as the Yamaha part on Partzilla is $2.91 + shipping. Technically you should throw away and replace the copper sealing washers every oil change (I only change them every other time).

Pic 1: Amazon Copper Washer Set
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Pic 2&3: J38 Engine Crankcase Parts Diagram

Pic 4: Partzilla lookup for the factory copper washer (Gasket)
https://www.partzilla.com/search?q=90430-12199-00

[Dirtroad]

Originally Posted by cgtech

If I pour a whole quart in there, will it harm anything? If oil coming out of every axle office is "not a problem", then itll be fine (dont do it). As far as correct level, if you have a lift kit, be sure the cart is jacked up enough to get the axle level again.

Thanks CG! I just thought... that's an awfully large pumpkin for only .85 of a quart. I thought maybe it was a typo and it should be 1.85 qt.

[Dirtroad]

Wow J-Rob thanks for all the valuable information!!! My cart does have a lift kit installed (not sure of the inches... I bought it that way) so that makes perfect sense! There was a copper washer on the trans so I just re-used that one (no leaks yet). I will order one of those washer kits for future changes and for other vehicles too. My motor is a VC 460 and that oil plug did not have any washer on it so I replaced the plug w/o one. No leaks on that yet but I put one on there when the new washers arrive. As you probably know I'm new to this cart stuff so all the information is very much appreciated!!!

[J-ROB]

No problem, the VC460 engine may not need one, but I don't think it would hurt anything to add one.

I've never had my hands on a VC engine, is the crankcase aluminum or steel on that? I would double check the above mentioned torque spec with VC on that engine for the oil drain plug. I am still stock engine and the spec I gave was for that engine.

Good luck with all you do to your cart, this forum is full of great people with great advice. I am only about 6 months into the cart hobby and have learned a TON from this site. Welcome to the addiction!

[Dirtroad]

I wasn't sure about the crankcase so I put a magnet to it and it didn't stick... guess it's aluminum. Yea this is a great forum with lots of very knowledgeable members! I have only been a member since the end of March and have already learned a ton of stuff! Thanks again J-Rob!

[jclark138]

You need an aluminum magnet? I’ll sell you one, have a model for brass & copper also, but they don’t work very well . . .

[Dirtroad]

Oh Boy!... I would love to get one of those aluminum ones from you. Would you take a wooden nickle for one?...