EZGO 2Five Lithium Conversion

[JaxPilot]

They (EVBattery) will build you a 2ga wiring with 350A Anderson plug for a little extra money.

From an email with Nick
"2GA is not a problem, the difference of the cable price is very minor. I'm not sure if will be necessary using 350A connectors. Usually we use 175A, assuming the continuous current does not go over 175A for long time. Discharge at 300-500A pulses is not a problem using SB175 Anderson."

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[bernito]

Originally Posted by Rickochet

I got that plug with my pack. EV Center recommends a fuse in the "+" wire. I put a HDPE floor in my battery tray. I bought two ANN/ANL fuse holders and screwed them to the floor. On one stud I connected the "+" ring from the cord. On the other stud I connected the OEM "+" wire from the controller and put an ANN fuse between them. For the negative I used another fuse holder and connected the rings from the pack cord and the controller to the same stud. I also attached my DVM wires and reed switch bypass to these terminals. I could have also used these to run power to a voltage converter also but I opted for a separate AGM 12v battery for accessories.

Thank you for the info. Are you using a Leaf pack (I cannot tell from the photo)?

Can you post a link to the ANN/ANL fuse holder you used and let me know what size amp fuses you used?

Also, it looks like you have two wires running from the cart to both the "+" and "-" studs on your two fuse holders. Where are the second wires coming from? Are those the DVM and reed switch bypass wires you were referring to? If so, are you connecting the reed switch bypass wires to both the "+" and "-" fuse studs? Is the DVM you are referring to a digital volt meter and are you connecting it to the "+" and "-" fuse studs as well?

If I replicate your setup, can I then attach all three cables that are currently attached to the "+" post of my existing battery series to the "+" post on the fuse holder and all three cables that are currently attached to the "-" post of my existing battery series to the "+" post on the other fuse holder?

[bernito]

Originally Posted by cgtech

You can contact "fullriver battey" in CA. They are a authoized Delta-q distributor. And they can make you a profile for lithiums for your current charger. You could sent it to them for this servic and use the charger you have now, with it's built-in dc convertor.

That sounds like the most elegant solution, although I want to make absolutely sure it is safe. Do you know what the correct profile would be if I use this battery pack?

http://evbatterycenter.com/HAC4/inde...led&Itemid=680

[bernito]

Originally Posted by JaxPilot

They (EVBattery) will build you a 2ga wiring with 350A Anderson plug for a little extra money.

From an email with Nick
"2GA is not a problem, the difference of the cable price is very minor. I'm not sure if will be necessary using 350A connectors. Usually we use 175A, assuming the continuous current does not go over 175A for long time. Discharge at 300-500A pulses is not a problem using SB175 Anderson."

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Should I need to ask Nick to build the 2 gauge wire from the battery pack and the optional cable with 175A or 350A connectors? Which is the better / safer option? Also, if I add ANN/ANL fuse holders like Rickochet suggested, should I change the OEM "+" and "-" wires from the controller to 2 gauge as well?

[Rickochet]

Originally Posted by bernito

Thank you for the info. Are you using a Leaf pack (I cannot tell from the photo)?

Yes, this is the smaller 2300wh pack from Nick at EV.

Can you post a link to the ANN/ANL fuse holder you used and let me know what size amp fuses you used?

These are all over Amazon and Ebay. Just pick the ones that suit your needs. My cart is a 36v TXT so your requirements might be different. Nick did recommend a 300a fuse for my system using an ANN fuse mainly for quick blow dead short protection. Check with Nick if you have questions.

Also, it looks like you have two wires running from the cart to both the "+" and "-" studs on your two fuse holders. Where are the second wires coming from? Are those the DVM and reed switch bypass wires you were referring to? If so, are you connecting the reed switch bypass wires to both the "+" and "-" fuse studs? Is the DVM you are referring to a digital volt meter and are you connecting it to the "+" and "-" fuse studs as well?

I have two small yellow wires labeled red on the "+" of the fuse holder. One is to the "+" for the ScottyB DVM and the other is the 36v "+" for reed switch bypass. There is only one small black wire on the Neg for the DVM. The DVM is also fused with an inline ATO fuse.

If I replicate your setup, can I then attach all three cables that are currently attached to the "+" post of my existing battery series to the "+" post on the fuse holder and all three cables that are currently attached to the "-" post of my existing battery series to the "+" post on the other fuse holder?

I will defer on this one. I don't have a clue about your system and where all the wires originate. The two bigger wires "probably" go to the controller. Two others "maybe" go to the charger which in it's current state is not lithium compatible. And the other two go to? BTW, make sure all of your wires are marked for polarity before you pull them from your pack. Mine weren't and kind of a pain to pull the controller cover to trace them later.

[cgtech]

Originally Posted by bernito

That sounds like the most elegant solution, although I want to make absolutely sure it is safe. Do you know what the correct profile would be if I use this battery pack?

http://evbatterycenter.com/HAC4/inde...led&Itemid=680

I do not know the correct profile. But fullriver will do most of the work for you in making a profile. You just fill in the blanks on the form with the correct specs of the cells you are using. Things like max allowable on charge voltage, nominal voltage, your desired charge rate.

[agpfl]

Originally Posted by bernito

http://evbatterycenter.com/HAC4/inde...led&Itemid=680

I am using this battery pack and am very happy with it so far. I have a TXT PDS and get close to 30 miles on the charge because its a DC motor. Your AC motor will get closer to the 40 miles stated.

[bernito]

Originally Posted by cgtech

I do not know the correct profile. But fullriver will do most of the work for you in making a profile. You just fill in the blanks on the form with the correct specs of the cells you are using. Things like max allowable on charge voltage, nominal voltage, your desired charge rate.

I received the form from Fullriver and filled out the Lithium Cell and BMS Parameter sections (my answers are in blue), but do not know the correct charge parameters and do not want to screw it up. Can anyone assist? Thanks for all of your help so far. This seems like the last step I need to complete to be able to move forward with my conversion.

[wyolinc]

Hi, I'm new here and have limited knowledge of electrical. That said, my 2014 2Five needs new batteries and I'd like to convert it to Lithium. Does anyone know anyone in the Los Angeles area who does this kind of work? Thanks in advance.

[cgtech]

As far as I know, it's still a choice of 2 options. Pay big bucks for a shop to do the conversion (99.5% of golf cart shops will say "nope"), or do it yourself. DIY requires some knowledge of electronics to do it safely (I disagree with how some conversions get done, from a safety standpoint). Needs a safety to shut down charger if any single cell goes outside parameters, and needs a low cell cutoff to protect the cells. Some people say "over discharge doesn't make them unsafe" , but I personally disagree. Even if the cells that went too low weren't a fire hazard (debatable), they all seem to have much higher self-discharge rates, which means they will never "play nice" with the good cells. Also, with the level of access to the controllers parameters for the built-in energy meter that even most advanced users may have, that factory meter won't read correctly. That's a big reason I have not done a 2five lithium conversion yet, no 2five buye wants to give up the factory speedometer/energy meter combo for a energy meter (without speedo) that can correctly read the lithium batteries. We warranty our lithium packs for 8 years (first 5 "no question warranty", last 3 prorated), so some protection must be in place to save the cells. As far as I know, there is no "Ezgo elite" package for 2Five yet, we'll see.