Trouble shooting

[Atlantic Boat Care]

I have done a motor test it goes. I have replaced the fwd/rev control all new batteries and all new micro switches new rev buzzer new turn on switch all new solenoids. I am stumped on why she wont go. A1 terminal connected to fwd/rev S2 connected to now #6 battery -, S1 connected to side post on controller, and A2 to driver side solenoid and passenger side solenoid connect to controller? am I missing something?

[Atlantic Boat Care]

I have the same diagram. The second cable on # 6 is connected for the negative side of the plug in charger

[scottyb]

I meant to say it was on battery #5, #6 is where it should be. Sorry

[Roxyflash]

I will take a picture of my cart when i get back home

[Sergio]

Originally Posted by Atlantic Boat Care

gotcha I switched that. Should solenoid 5 large post ever receive 36v. Now it reads 0 and when I depress the pedal the small terminal with green wire receives 36v and 0 when I let off. cart does not want to go for some reason.

First make sure You make the corrections I pointed out on Post #8.

Short Answer:

Your master solenoid is not Closing.

Long Answer:

Your readings did not make sense until You posted your battery wiring.
Digital voltmeters typically have a high impedance, which means they use a very low current when taking voltage readings.
The current is so low that would not cause a measurable voltage drop across the resistor coils or the motor.
What is happening is that with the cart in Forward, when you measure the voltage at any of the resistor coils, You are actually measuring the voltage at pack positive (follow the wiring diagram).
When You measure the voltage at the master solenoid post connected to the motor, You are measuring the voltage at pack negative, which should have been 0v. but since you have the cable on the wrong battery, You got 6v.
When You put the FNR in reverse, the master solenoid post on the motor side is now measuring the voltage at the 1/2 speed positive (follow the wiring diagram), which is +18v since your meter probe is on pack negative.

The good news is that proves Your FNR is wired correctly, just find out why the master solenoid is not closing.

Verify that You are getting 36v with You meter probes in each of the small posts of the Master solenoid when the key is ON, FNR in Forward and the pedal depressed (wheels off ground).

What is the voltage at the buss bar across all solenoids when the pedal is pressed?

[Sergio]

It is unclear to me which large post on the speed solenoids you were measuring, it could be that none of your solenoids are closing.

Did You verify that you are getting the negative side on the small posts?

Put you meter probes on Pack Positive (red probe) and on any of the small post linked together (black probe).

When the key switch is ON and the FNR is in forward, You should get +36v reading on the meter.

[Atlantic Boat Care]

When I checked the post at the bus bar voltage with pedal pressed I receive o volts. When I checked the small post that run the yellow wire in series with one another with red probe on pack + and each yellow wire post reads 0 volts. When I check the small post with the speed box wires and pedal pressed I receive 36v.

[Sergio]

Originally Posted by Atlantic Boat Care

When I checked the post at the bus bar voltage with pedal pressed I receive o volts. When I checked the small post that run the yellow wire in series with one another with red probe on pack + and each yellow wire post reads 0 volts. When I check the small post with the speed box wires and pedal pressed I receive 36v.

You are minutes away from a running cart!

You are missing the negative side of all the Solenoids.

Put the FNR in Neutral and Key Switch ON.

With the meter red probe on pack positive, measure the voltage at the FNR micro-switch.

You should get +36v on one side and 0v on the other side.

If You get 0v on both sides, the issue is at the key switch.

If one side measures +36v, put the meter probe on the side that has 0v.

Depress the micro-switch lever, the meter should read +36v, if not, the micro-switch is bad.

[Atlantic Boat Care]

. I pulled the switch out and it is a 20A 12v dc/ 10A24v
I did the recommended test above and got 0 all the way around . Tested the wires and they are reading properly. I am heading out to look for a proper switch any recommendations?

[Atlantic Boat Care]

some new pics . Followed your recommendations and made the changes and improvements maybe these pics can help others as well.